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| © Eugene Brennan |
Like any other faucet (also known as a tap), a spigot has an internal washer which seals and cuts off flow when the spigot is turned off. Eventually after thousands of on/off cycles, this washer wears away, and the result is a dripping spigot.
Fortunately only a couple of tools are needed for this repair and a washer only costs tens of cents. The most tricky and problematic part of the repair is likely to be unscrewing the top of the device.
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| Spigot mechanism. The black washer part is screwed down onto a seat, shutting off flow. Chabacano / CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons |
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| Outside tap, also known as a spigot or bibcock. © Eugene Brennan |
What is a Spigot?
Depending on where you live in the world, this valve is known by different names. In the USA, it’s commonly referred to as a spigot, bibcock, bib, hose bib, outdoor or garden faucet or silcock. In Britain and Ireland, we call it an outside or garden tap.
What Tools Are Needed For Repairing a Spigot?
- Vice grip locking pliers for holding body of spigot
- Wrench (spanner) or alternatively a second vice grips, water pump pliers or pipe wrench (stilsons) for removing upper body of spigot
Step 1. Identify Where the Water is Coming from on the Spigot
Spigots leak either from the spout itself or from around the spindle (shaft) of the spigot where it enters the packing nut (gland nut). If the latter is the case, it will dribble from this point when turned on.
Step 2. Turn Off the Water
Locate the valve for shutting off water to the spigot and close it. These are usually turned off by turning clockwise. There are three common types:
- Gate valve. The handle must be continuously turned until it goes no further.
- Ball valve (quadrant valve). Turn the lever 90 degrees. Usually when the valve is off, the lever is perpendicular to the pipe.
- Miniature inline ball valve. These are often used to shut off flow to individual appliances. Turn the screw 90 degrees clockwise with a screwdriver so it’s perpendicular to the pipe.
Turn on the spigot to release any water.
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| Gate valve – Turn fully clockwise for off © Eugene Brennan |
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| Quadrant or ball valve. This is off when the handle is perpendicular or 90 degrees to the pipe © Eugene Brennan |
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| Miniature inline valve, which is opened/closed with a screwdriver. Turn so the slot is 90 degrees to the pipe. © Eugene Brennan |
Step 3. Remove the Head of the Spigot
Fixing the spigot washer
Open the spigot a couple of turns. Use the vice grips to hold the valve body of the spigot. A curved jaw vice grips will give a better grip than a plain/straight jawed type. Alternatively hold the body of the spigot with a water pump pliers. If you don’t hold the spigot body securely and have to use a large force to undo the upper section or head, its quite possible to rip out the fixing screws and pull the spigot off the wall or timber its mounted on.
You can use either a wrench (spanner), stilsons (pipe wrench) or water pump pliers to remove the head of the spigot. The head is removed anticlockwise.
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| Remove the head. Ideally you should hold the body also to restrain it, © Eugene Brennan |
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| From left to right – Wrench (spanner), stilsons (pipe wrench), water pump pliers. Either of these can be used to remove the head of the spigot © Eugene Brennan |
If the head is stuck fast, and difficult to unscrew, try heating the lower section of the spigot with boiling water. This usually works because it expands the brass body sufficiently to reduce its holding grip. The important thing is to only heat the lower body of the spigot. If you pour boiling water over both parts, the two sections will expand, defeating the purpose.
You can also try tapping the wrench with a light hammer. This can be difficult to do (a third hand would be useful for holding the vice grips, but your belly might suffice!). A second straight jaw vice grips comes in useful if you need to do this.
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| If you can’t remove the head, try using hot water. This expands the lower metal body of the spigot and loosens its grip. Pour water on the lower half only, not the head © Eugene Brennan |
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| Tap gently if the head still remains difficult to remove © Eugene Brennan |
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| A second vice grips comes in useful © Eugene Brennan |
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| Head removed from spigot. © Eugene Brennan |
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| The washer seals against the rim of the hole inside the spigot (called the valve seat) © Eugene Brennan |
Step 4. Remove the Old Washer
This is often held on with a “mushroom” type projection or lug extending from the “jumper” or flange section. Alternatively a nut is used for retaining the washer.
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| Worn washer © Eugene Brennan |
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| Worn washer © Eugene Brennan |
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| This flanged piece is called a “jumper” and has a mushroom shaped lug (or nut) at the center to retain the washer © Eugene Brennan |
Step 5. Fit the New Washer
You will need a 3/4 inch or 20mm diameter washer for a 1/2 inch spigot.
Use your thumbs and nails to push the washer into place.
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| Push the the new washer on with your thumbs © Eugene Brennan |
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| New washer in place © Eugene Brennan |
Step 6. Smear a Little Vaseline on the Threads and Replace the Head
A little Vaseline makes it easier to remove the head the next time.
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| Smear a little Vaseline on the threads © Eugene Brennan |
Water Leaking From the Spindle of a Spigot
Sometimes a spigot may leak from the point where the shaft or spindle enters the head. If this is the case, you need to replace the packing nut washer. This is held in place by the packing nut, screwed into the head. Use the same steps above to undo this nut and you should be able to buy a replacement in a plumbers suppliers or good homestore. A solution which may also work is to wrap the spindle with PTFE plumbing tape and push this down into the hollow inside the head nut. Then replace the packing nut.
If it Still Leaks……
The valve seat may be worn. This is the part inside the spigot which the washer pushes against to cut off flow. This can be reground flat with a valve reseating tool. Now while this option could be considered for faucets on wash basins, baths and sinks which are more difficult and awkward to replace, its not worth buying a tool to regrind an outdoor spigot. These are relatively inexpensive compared to their chrome plated counterparts indoors and easy to replace.
Amazon’s Choice for Replacement Bib With Sharkbite Fitting
If you need to replace your garden bibcock, this is Amazon’s Choice for an outside faucet with Sharkbite fittings. The 3/4″ GHT – 1/2″ NPT bibcock can be quickly connected by anyone without plumbing skills because it has a Sharkbite push fitting connector for for use with copper, PEX, CPVC, PE-RT or HDPE plumbing. So no wrenches are required. Just cut the pipe square and push into the Bib. You will also need a double check valve connected inline in the feed pipe to the spigot to prevent dirty water from e.g. a connected hose back flowing into your home supply. This is usually located indoors in the feed pipe.
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| Hose bib or garden faucet. © Eugene Brennan |
Fixing a Leaking Hose Connection
If your hose has a connection like the one below, the O-ring in the coupler can wear over time.
Remove the old O-ring with a screwdriver. Try to get a new one with the same thickness, although a thicker or smaller diameter one may still work. Push the new ring into place with your thumbs and make sure its fully seated in the groove.
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| A leaking hose connector is caused by a worn O-ring © Eugene Brennan |
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| O-rings become worn and cracked over time, causing leaks © Eugene Brennan |
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| O-ring © Eugene Brennan |
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| Remove the old O-ring with a screwdriver © Eugene Brennan |
Care of Hoses During Winter
In winter after you turn off the faucet/spigot/tap, turn the spray nozzle back on and allow water to drain from the hose. You won’t get all the water out, but it may leave enough air spaces in the hose for expansion of water to occur and help prevent bursting in severely cold weather. If the spray nozzle is hanging downwards and turned off, water can collect in it and freeze, cracking the fitting. This has happened to me on a couple of occasions. So leave it on for water to drain out. See photo below.
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| This spray nozzle cracked because it was left turned off in freezing weather © Eugene Brennan |
References
Day, A. J. A. (2001). Collins Complete DIY Manual. London, England: Burns & Oates.
Disclaimer
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
© 2015 Eugene Brennan
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