How to Measure Power
With the cost of electricity on the increase, an energy monitoring adapter is a useful device that can measure and track the energy consumption of your home appliances.
With the cost of electricity on the increase, an energy monitoring adapter is a useful device that can measure and track the energy consumption of your home appliances.
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| Original uncaptioned image public domain via Pixabay.com |
Summer is here and everything is now growing at full pace, so now’s a good time to stock up on tools if you haven’t done so already and get stuck into work in the garden!
This is a guide for beginner gardeners giving some basic info on selecting tools for the yard and garden. You may have moved into your first house and just need to buy tools out of necessity in order to do basic maintenance. Alternatively, you could be landscaping your new garden or rearranging an existing layout. In this article, we’ll discuss these tools.
If you don’t have a garden and only have the space to grow in pots and planters, a hand trowel and sweeping brush for cleaning up mess are probably the only garden tools you’ll need. For watering, you can get away with a plastic bottle, kettle or jug, but a small watering can is useful.
Only a few other tools can be considered essential, so you can just buy the others as you need them. First, here are the 5 most essential:
For planting flowers in beds, planters, pots or window boxes in summer, a hand trowel/planter is necessary. These are available with wooden, plastic or metal handles. Wood tends to have a better grip in the hand than plastic.
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| Steel garden trowel GFDL, CC by SA 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
You can get away with using a bucket, but a watering can is better for watering window boxes, pots, etc. You can also use it for rinsing off concrete or garden seating that you’ve cleaned. It can also be used as a portable water source for refilling small hand sprayers.
The capacity of a watering can is normally 2 gallons or 9 litres. A smaller can with a gallon capacity or less is very handy and easier to lift when watering hanging baskets or other containers at a height. Watering cans are made of plastic or galvanised steel. Plastic cans should be kept out of the sun as UV makes the plastic brittle over time.
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| 2 gallon watering can DonBanana, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons |
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| Smaller capacity can, suitable for watering hanging baskets Dake, CC by SA 2.5 generic via Wikimedia Commons |
This is probably the most essential gardening tool for digging holes to plant trees, shrubs, and large flowers.
You can also use a spade for hoeing weeds, although it would be heavier than a hoe which is the proper tool for the job. A spade can be used for edging flower beds and for shoveling small quantities of material. Spades can also be used for chopping the roots of small trees before digging them up.
You can buy a spade with a long or short handle. Long handles have more leverage and further reach but this results in a spade a little heavier than one with a short handle. Also, it can be awkward to use in a confined space such as a small glass house. The blade can be long or short. 9 inches should be fine. Anything longer is unwieldy. Spades and other tools are available which are made of stainless steel. This doesn’t rust, but can be more expensive and heavier. If the dirt is shaken, knocked or washed off a garden tool before it is stored in a dry shed or garage, corrosion shouldn’t be an issue.
It’s essential to have the blade of a spade razor sharp to make digging easier. You can do this with a carborundum sharpening stone or an angle grinder if you have access to one. If the blade is very sharp, there is no harm wearing steel toe cap shoes or boots in the garden to protect your toes if you miss your aim digging!
Many garden tools are now available with fiberglass/plastic handles which unlike wood don’t become rotten, infested by woodworm or splinter.
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| Long and short handled spades Alupus, CC SA 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
You will need one of these if you have hedges, shrubs or trees. Shears can also be used to trim grass along pavements, curbs, or edges of flower beds, as well as around trees and shrubs.
Try to buy a pair of shears that is mid-priced. Cheap shears have thinner blades which don’t hold their shape and can twist and warp if overloaded while trying to cut thick branches. (Shears aren’t designed for doing this in any case—see loppers and saws below). With more expensive models you are just paying for the name.
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| Hedge shears/trimmers |
Rakes are useful for raking leaves and other debris into a pile. A lawn rake is used for raking moss and leaves (thatch) from a lawn surface.
Rake with the wind. This will make for a less frustrating and time-consuming experience.
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| Various types of rakes liz west, CC 2.0 generic via Wikimedia Commons |
As your garden evolves with more chores to take care of, you can start to build up your arsenal of tools. Here are 10 of the most useful to have around:
For shifting large quantities of stuff when you get fed up using a bucket or garbage bags. A wheelbarrow is pretty much essential for moving large amounts of soil, gravel, hedge clippings and compost from A to B.
Available with large and small capacities. You can buy one with a plastic body which won’t rust but you can’t fire stuff like rocks into it! Try to get a good strong one which will last. Check the supports on the underside of the body as often this is a weak point.
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| Galvanised wheel barrow MarkusHagenlocher, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons |
For shifting material such as dirt/soil, sand, gravel or compost you will need a shovel.
These are available in a multitude of shapes and sizes depending on the application. Similar to spades, they can be long or short handled, the blade can be made of steel, stainless steel or aluminum (good for shoveling snow because the blade is light). Also, the blade can be pointed, often called a builders shovel, which makes it easy to dig into a pile, or flat as in the case of a grain shovel. These are like a dustpan and good for sweeping up stuff in conjunction with a brush or rake.
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| Various types of shovels Tiesse, public domain via Wikimedia Commons |
It can be used for pruning roses but also to snip lumps off shrubs and trees which are getting in your way. Don’t cut material beyond about 3/8 or 10mm thickness or you will strain the tool!
There are two types; bypass, and anvil. A bypass secateurs is like scissors or hedge shears, a cutting blade slides by a blunt ‘blade’ called a hook. An anvil shear has a single cutting blade that cuts into a branch pushed against a flat surface or ‘anvil’.A bypass pruner is fine for general purpose pruning of softwood / semi-hardwood around the garden and is less likely to crush stems than an anvil pruner. However, the advantage of an anvil pruner is that the blade cuts mid-way between where a branch is supported on the anvil. So when cutting hardwood, the branch is less likely to pivot.
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| Secateurs KoS, public domain image via Wikimedia Commons |
This has a light blade and handle and is used for severing top growth on weeds in beds and on stone driveways.
If you have an aversion to using weed killer, this is a good alternative. Again, the blade should be kept razor shape for ease of use.
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| Garden hoe © Eugene Brennan |
A fork is used for digging and loosening soil and lifting vegetation.
There are two types, a digging fork, and a lifting fork. A digging fork can be useful for digging into soil containing lots of stones, roots, etc. It would be difficult to use a spade under these conditions. A lifting fork is used for lifting hedge clippings, long grass, weeds etc for transfer to and from a wheelbarrow. You can also rake bulky material with a lifting fork. (it’s difficult to do this with a rake).
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| A digging fork. Rasbak, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons |
Usually, they have prongs which allow you to loosen the dirt around the root and pry it up out of the ground.
The two styles to choose from are short-handled and long-handled. The short-handled requires you to work on your knees, while the latter allows you to stand.
These are useful for splitting logs and cutting roots of trees and shrubs before digging them up.
Each of these tools can be used for similar purposes in a pinch, but it is important to know what situations require the appropriate tool.
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| Splitting axe b.gliwa, CC SA 2.5 generic via Wikimedia Commons |
A step ladder allows you to reach high places to groom hedges or other higher growing plants.
Although not specifically a garden tool, a step ladder is essential for pruning and cutting tall hedges, trees, and shrubs.
For watering during dry spells if your water supply company allows this practice and general washing of stuff. A garden hose on a reel is best because you can roll it up and keep it tidy.
Get an outside tap with a threaded spout installed. This will allow you to connect the hose up outside, without the hassle of walking inside with dirty boots and hands to use the kitchen tap.
A 1 gallon or 5-litre sprayer is necessary for treating weeds on lawns, around trees, and on gravel driveways.
For larger areas, you could also buy a knapsack sprayer which you carry on your back. These have a capacity of 3 to 4 gallons (15 to 18 litres).
Once you have gotten a knack of things, you can try introducing these 7 more advanced gardening tools to your gardening practices:
Used for cutting branches on trees or shrubs of up to 1 1/2 inches or 40 mm. Use the blade so that it cuts diagonally on the stem. This puts less strain on the blade and requires less effort as you are semi cutting along the grain.Loppers are available with telescopic handles which can be stretched out to give longer reach or pushed in for working in tight spaces. A ratcheting lopper allows you to continuously pump the handles to cut through a branch. These require less effort because you can take a break half-way through, but are slower to use.
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| Loppers Dvortygirl, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons |
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| A loppers can easily cut branches 1 inch (25mm) thick © Eugene Brennan |
For cutting branches greater than 1 1/2 inches. You can also use it for cutting logs for your stove/open fire. (see my guide for details). How to Cut Logs with a Bow Saw and Get Great Exercise!
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| Bow saw Horváth Dávid, CC 2.0 generic via Wikimedia Commons |
A saw with a slim, pointed “nose” gets into tighter spaces when you’re cutting limbs from trees and there’s another growth in the way. I like this Bahco brand saw which has a 21-inch blade and is made by a well known Swedish hand tool manufacturer. It also has a comfortable plastic hand grip so your hand doesn’t slip or tire when using the saw for extended periods.A shorter saw is available that you can also use if you go camping. This one folds up, shielding the blade and can be carried safely in a backpack. It's a Gerber Freescape Camp Saw and takes a standard 12″ blade.
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| Bahco pointed nose bow saw |
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| Gerber Freescape Campsaw |
Unless you have an extremely small lawn which can be cut with a push-type reel (cylinder) mower, you are going to need to get a power lawn mower. Gas mowers are generally more powerful than electric or battery types, but these are fine for small lawns and cutting short grass.
A 3.5 HP or 140 cc gas mower is ok for a small lawn. If you have a medium to large sized lawn and/or only cut the grass when it gets very long, or it has a lot of moss, don’t buy anything with less than 5 hp /170 cc. For more information on choosing a mower, see my guide “Buying a Lawn Mower: Which Is Best? Electric, Gas, or Battery?“
You can cut grass along pavements, curbs, tree trunks and hedges with these. You can also edge flower beds.
The string trimmer is also known as a trimmer, strimmer, weed whacker, and weedeater.
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| Gas and electric trimmers © Eugene Brennan |
Greenworks 21142 model. This has a 10 amp motor (equivalent to over 1100 watt or 1 1/2 HP). The reason I like this machine is because the motor is mounted near the handle end of the shaft unlike lower powered corded electric trimmers that have the motor at the cutting head. This balances the machine better. Because it’s electric there are no fumes and it’s ideal if you you find it difficult to pull start an engine.
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| Greenworks 21142 string trimmer. Amaxon |
These are used to make hedge cutting easier, more efficient, and produce more precise results.
Electric corded or battery cordless versions can be used for light growth, while gas-powered is for heavy growth up to 20mm (3/4″). Obviously, the corded version has to be used with care to avoid cutting the cable.
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| Gas powered hedge cutter/trimmer Ruthanne Reid, CC 2.0 Generic, via Wikimedia Commons |
Although they are not a substitute for rake and fork for collecting large quantities of leaves, they can be of benefit for blowing dry leaves into a pile or finishing off and sucking up debris or leaves remaining after raking.
Again, much like the powered hedge cutter, electric and gas versions are available.
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| Gas leaf blowers Browning031, public domain image via Wikimedia Commons |
A chipper/shredder is useful for dealing with branches.
The shredded material can be used as a mulch for preventing weed growth or as a covering for natural pathways in the garden.
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| Chipper © Eugene Brennan |
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| Chipped branches can be used to suppress weeds © Eugene Brennan |
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury.
© 2012 Eugene Brennan
PATRICIA DINIZ CATTA PRETAon October 25, 2018:
That’s great! Very helpful and easy to understand even for English learners! Thanks
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| Learn how to grow easy-to-grow-flowers for your garden by reading this guide. |
This article gives you some ideas about easy-to-grow perennial and annual flowers for your planters, pots, and flower beds. From Himalayan blue poppies to red valerian, this flower guide covers the entire rainbow colour spectrum. Find your favourites below!
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| A GFCI or RCD (Residual Current Device) will help prevent potentially dangerous “electrical leaks”. © Eugene Brennan |
A GFCI or “Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter” is an electrical safety device that shuts off power when there’s an electrical “leak”, increasing your safety by helping to prevent dangerous electrical shocks. A GFCI can typically be plugged into a standard socket outlet.
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| Original unaltered image byrev, public domain via Pixabay.com |
An angle or hand grinder is a power tool regularly used by construction workers and contractors. However, it’s also an invaluable tool in the home workshop or around the house, with a multitude of uses for DIY and crafts.
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| © Eugene Brennan |
Cordless tools are great and, unlike their corded counterparts, they have the obvious advantage of freedom from a power cord that can get in the way, become taut when manoeuvring the tool or end up being tripped over. Also you don’t have to be lugging extension leads around.
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| Laying edging kerbs is a simple DIY job with this guide! © Eugene Brennan |
Edging a lawn or driveway gives it a crisp, clean look and helps the eye to define the boundary between lawn or flower beds and the harder look of the concrete, stone or tarmac (asphalt) surface of your drive.
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| © Eugene Brennan |
Fixing stuff to walls is relatively easy, in fact I’ve been doing it since I was 13! My home-made wall plugs made from branches weren’t such a good idea though, and my first shelves fell of the wall when the plugs dried out! In fact, the method used to mount cabinets, brackets for shelves, coat hooks, etc., on a wall depends on the nature of the wall construction. In this guide, I cover some the various fixings available to attach items to different types of wall material, including timber studs, plasterboard (drywall) and masonry walls.
Various fixings are used depending on the structure of the surface you’ll be mounting on. If you’re fixing to timber or wooden studs under drywall, you just use screws, but for drywall itself or masonry, the fixing either holds onto the back of the drywall, or expands in the hole respectively. These are the fixings you’ll typically use:
Note: The name for the device used to attach items to walls differs between countries. In the US, the term “anchor” is more common, whereas in the UK, the term “fixing” is used. Also what’s called “plasterboard” in the UK is referred to as “drywall” in the US.
“Fixing” is the British term for “anchor” (US).
“Drywall” is the American term for “plasterboard” (UK).
If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal.
Light items, such as small picture frames, wall clocks etc., can be screwed directly to timber panelling/boards if you don’t have drywall.
For items carrying heavy loads, a more secure method is to drive screws into the center of the wall studs. Heavier items such as cabinets and TV brackets need to be fixed to the wall studs with 10 or 11 gage (about 5mm diameter) screws. Modern LED TVs are quite light compared to CRT or plasma types, so you may get away with mounting the brackets directly onto boards or drywall.
Plasterboard (drywall) is nailed onto a hollow timber framework known as a stud wall or framing, built from 2 x 4s. (2 inch x 4 inch cross section timbers) or larger cross sectional area (CSA) timber. This is composed of vertical and horizontal sections called studs and noggings (blocking) respectively.
Studs are typically spaced 16″ (400mm) apart and can be found with an electronic stud detector or identifying where drywall sheets butt together at the centre of a stud. You can find a stud by tapping the wall and when you locate a point where the sound is less “hollow,” a stud is underneath.
If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal (useful for finding plumbing and other services in the wall and/or power cables).
Once you have found a stud, mark its center, and screw your fixture onto the wall with wood screws. Plasterboard is generally 13 mm (1/2 inch) to 16 mm (5/8 inch) thick, so make sure you size the length of screws appropriately. i.e. allow for the thickness of the plasterboard and the fixture, with 40 mm (1 1/2 inch) of screw thread actually screwing into the stud.
Metal shelf brackets usually have pre-drilled holes. Cabinets sometimes have flat pieces of metal at the back from which the cabinet can be screwed to the wall and “suspended”. If the back of a cabinet is fairly thick and not just thin hardboard, you can drive screws straight through from front to back and into the wall. If the back of a cabinet isn’t pre-drilled, drill holes the same diameter as the screws you are using and then screw the screws into the wall. Choose the length of the screw to cater for the combined thickness of the back of the cabinet and drywall.
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| Stud Wall Ahp378, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
For mounting to studs and plasterboard (also known as drywall), there are several options. You can use plastic wall plugs (see mounting on masonry walls below) directly pushed into the plaster. However, these are only suitable for very light loads (e.g., small mirrors, light picture frames and smoke alarms). The appropriate fixings for drywall are metal or plastic self-drive fixings (anchors), spring toggle anchors or hollow expansion anchors. For heavier loads, screw directly into the wall studs.
These are small metal or plastic fixings with a coarse outer thread and inner thread which takes a screw. These will either have a cutting edge and make their own hole in the plasterboard/drywall or you may have to drill a small pilot hole first. The pilot hole diameter may be marked on the fixing, but if not, drill a hole the diameter of the unthreaded core of the fixing in the plasterboard. Now drive the fixing into the plasterboard either using a special dedicated drive bit for a cordless drill or a normal screwdriver. Then attach whatever you are hanging on the the wall to the fixing using the screw provided. These are fine for mounting socket outlets, switches, light fittings on ceilings and other light loads.
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| Self-drive drywall anchors and drive bit for cordless drill. Metal versions are also available. The pilot hole size which needs to be drilled in the plasterboard (6mm), is marked on the fixing Smial, Free Art Licence via Wikimedia Commons |
Alternatively, you can use spring toggle fixings. You drill a hole for these, insert the fitting into the hole and two spring loaded arms open out at the back of the drywall giving anchorage. These provide better anchorage than self-drive anchors which could pull out of the drywall if the load is heavy. The disadvantage of these is that if the screw is removed, the toggle will fall down inside the wall. They also require a relatively large hole drilled in the drywall.
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| Spring toggle anchors Tenbergen, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
The hollow shell of these anchors expands as the screw is tightened, pushing against the back surface of the drywall. This gives good grip and the fixings are suitable for heavier loads such as TV brackets. They are available in plastic or metal versions.
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| Hollow expansion anchors Dmitry G, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
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| Hollow expansion anchor. |
Masonry includes concrete blocks, bricks, solid concrete wall, stone and aerated concrete blocks. Typical fixings include:
If a wall is solid construction you must use plastic screw anchors also known as wall plugs. These expand and grip the side of the hole when a screw is driven into them.
The hole is drilled to adequate depth, the wall plug inserted and the fixture screwed onto the wall with 8 or 10 gage (4mm or 5mm) diameter screws. 40 to 50 mm (1 1/2 to 2 inch) long screws are fine for most applications. Use thicker wall plugs and screws for heavier loads.
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| Typical wall plug/anchors for masonry walls. The required drill bit size in mm is indicated on the shank Bronzaclose, Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication via Wikimedia Commons |
To attach a bracket to a wall, first position it against the wall and mark the first hole with a pencil or nail. Don’t mark all the holes because if the drilled hole goes off course, or is a little to one side, the other holes will be out of alignment. Drill the hole with a suitable diameter masonry drill bit, rake or vacuum out the dust and insert the anchor into the hole. Place the bracket against the wall again and line up the center of the anchor in the wall with the hole in the bracket. Mark the next hole and drill it. Repeat for all the holes and finally attach the bracket with wood screws.
If you’re mounting shelf brackets, hold the second bracket against the wall and either rest the shelf on the two brackets and level with a spirit level or if the span is short you can just rest the level on the two brackets without the shelf. Mark the top hole in the second bracket, drill the hole for the screw fitting and then mark and drill the remaining holes as described above. Finally, screw the bracket to the wall.
To use wall plugs (rawplugs), drill the recommended size hole with a hammer action power drill and masonry drill bit and use the proper screw size. The fixing expands as the screw is driven home and grips the side of the hole. People sometimes generically refer to wall plugs as “Rawlplugs” because the wall plug was invented by John Joseph Rawlings, the founder of the Rawlplug company.
Wall plugs normally have the drill diameter marked on them and possibly also the max diameter screw that can be used.
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| Screw sizes and the bit size for the hole are sometimes marked on the wall plugs. © Eugene Brennan |
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| Masonry drill bit Emrys2, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons |
If you need to mount heavy loads on masonry walls, there are a couple of options. You can use expansion bolts (wedge anchors) and these are available in a variety of configurations. The most basic type shown in the photos below has a bolt which screws into an outer sleeve. A suitably sized hole is drilled in a wall (the diameter is usually printed on the anchor) and the expansion part of the fixing is inserted in the hole. The bolt is passed through the fixture being attached to the wall and the bolt tightened with a wrench. The fixing expands and securely grips the side of the hole. You can get these fixings with a hook or eye at the end for attaching cables and ropes etc (e.g., a clothes line). Another type has a nut rather than a bolt head at the end.
Important! Expansion fittings shouldn’t be excessively tightened to avoid cracking concrete. They should also be kept in a minimum distance from the edge of concrete or solid blocks. A crack in this case could cause a section to break off and the bolt to lose its grip on the masonry.
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| Expansion bolt (Wedge anchor) © Eugene Brennan |
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| When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve expands and grips the side of the hole © Eugene Brennan |
For fixing timber frames to concrete or brick walls, you have two options: frame fixings or express anchors.
Lengths of timber, stud walls or any other type of thick material can be fixed to masonry with frame fixings. These are like a long wall plug. An 8mm to 10mm hole is first drilled through timber and masonry behind it and the fixing tapped home until the edge is flush with the timber. Then the screw is either screwed or hammered into the plastic sleeve. You can also use these fixings for attaching things to masonry walls, after the walls have been insulated with composite drywall/insulation boards, e.g., radiators. Choose an appropriate length so that the part of the fixing that expands is within the masonry.
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| Frame fixing |
Express anchors represent another option for attaching timber beams, fence posts, door frames etc to walls. These fixings are hollow with a slot in the side and slightly larger than the hole which is drilled for them. When hammered into a hole, they squeeze tight and wedge firmly into position. They can also be used for joining timber as they provide the advantage of a screw, resisting being pulled out, and the convenience of a nail. The disadvantage of course is that unlike a frame fixing, they are permanent and can’t be easily removed.
Note! Neither frame fixings nor express anchors are recommended for fixing into cavity blocks. In any case, they should be at least 4 inches (100mm) in from the edges of blocks and spaced no closer than 4 inches to prevent cracking of the masonry.
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| Express nail anchor © Eugene Brennan |
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| Express anchors can be used for attaching timbers to walls © Eugene Brennan |
For brick or stud walls, I generally use Spax wood screws or similar. These type of screws have a tip which drills through timber as the screw is driven, making for easier driving. A Philips head allows you to drive the screw with a cordless drill.
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| Spax wood screws © Eugene Brennan |
Spax wood screws or similar with a Philips head have a special tip that makes drilling easier.
Spring toggle anchors provide the most anchorage when it comes to drywall/plasterboard.
Hollow expansion anchors are suitable for heavy loads, such as TVs.
Heavy items should be mounted to a stud, if possible. If you are not mounting on a stud, use a toggle anchor. The size of the toggle depends on the weight of the piece and the thickness of the wall. If you are mounting a heavy item on a masonry wall, use an expansion bolt (anchor wedge).
The thicker the anchor, the more weight it can hold. A thick toggle anchor can hold up to 50 pounds. Hollow expansion anchors can hold up to 100 pounds.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury.
© 2011 Eugene Brennan
lucille12 on April 05, 2015:
The right hangers can certainly help in organizing your home and eliminating the piles that lay around the home.
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| © Eugene Brennan |
The epic saga of the two year construction of a garden shed…
Have you ever wanted to build your own garden shed? I always have and attempted my first one when I was about 10 years old, but abandoned the project because of lack of materials, skills and tools! Eventually, 40 years later, I got around to building a proper garden tool shed.
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| Petrol and electric corded trimmers © Eugene Brennan |
This garden power tool has many names depending on where you live in the world, but one thing is sure — it certainly beats a hedge shears for trimming and edging! Like most power tools nowadays, string trimmers are available in petrol, electric corded and rechargeable battery cordless versions.