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| © Eugene Brennan |
3 Ways to Cut Timber
Making accurate square (90-degree) and mitred
(angled) cuts in timber is an essential skill when making joints in
furniture and to a lesser degree in building construction. Even if you
don’t attempt any serious DIY, the need sometimes arises to cut a length
of timber reasonably accurately. For instance, architrave may need to
be cut around a window or doorway, skirtboards (baseboards) at the base
of a wall have to be renewed, or a board from the cladding on your home
or shed gets damaged and must be replaced. This article shows you three
methods to cut timber.
- Mark and cut by eye without a guide. This is not terribly accurate, but it’s ok if measurements and squareness aren’t critical.
- Use a mitre box. This guides the saw and gives better results. However, you can only make 45- and 90-degree cuts.
- Use a mitre saw. This is the most accurate method of cutting lengths of timber at any angle. Mitre saws are also called “chop saws”.
Note: ‘Mitre’ is spelled ‘miter’ in American English.
Method 1: Mark and Cut By Eye Without a Guide
The
most basic method of cutting timber is to simply mark it and cut by
eye. For basic work where accuracy isn’t important, this is quite
adequate. However, unless you have a good eye and have become skilled
from years of practice, the results are variable, and beginners will end
up with crooked cuts on the end of timber.
Step 1. First Mark the Dimensions on the Timber
Use
a sharpened pencil to produce a thin marking line on the wood. Hold the
tape close to one of the edges and mark the required dimension.
Note: If
you buy lumber from a store, the end will likely be a 90-degree cut,
but check it beforehand with your carpenters square. If it isn’t,
initially follow steps 2 to 4 of the marking out and cutting
instructions below to remove a small section at the end of the timber
(keep about 1/2 inch in from the edge). Once this is done, you can
continue to measure, mark and cut the required length.
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First check the end of the timber is square
© Eugene Brennan |
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Mark the required measurement on the timber with a short pencil tick
© Eugene Brennan |
Step 2. Use a Carpenter's Square to Mark Top Side
A carpenter's square allows you to make a right-angled mark across the timber. You can also use an engineer's square or a triangle
(set square in UK English). Hold the “stock” or handle of the square
tightly against the wood while marking. Ideally, you should position the
tip of the pencil on the mark you made initially when measuring, and
slide the square so that it butts against the tip, then mark along the
square.
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Use a square to produce a right angled pencil line guide
© Eugene Brennan |
Step 3. Mark the Two Vertical Sides
Continue to mark the front and rear vertical sides of the timber.
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Mark a guide line on both the vertical sides
© Eugene Brennan |
Step 4. Hold the Wood Securely and Cut With a Hand Saw
If
you have a vice, use this to hold the wood securely while sawing,
alternatively use your knee and a stool, low table, Black and Decker
Workmate or whatever.
Use the pencil lines on the vertical surfaces of the timber as guides while sawing and try to keep the saw blade straight.
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Hold the timber securely in a vice
© Eugene Brennan |
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You can also use your knee to hold it
© Eugene Brennan |
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Keep your thumb out of the way in case the saw slips!
© Eugene Brennan |
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Quick release clamps are useful for holding timber
© Eugene Brennan |
Method 2: Using a Mitre Box
This
gives improved accuracy when cutting. A mitre box has slots in its
vertical sides which act as guides and prevent the blade of a saw from
sloping from the vertical. Metal, wood and plastic versions are
available. Some need to be held in a vise while others have a “hook” or
raised edge on the underside which can be butted up against the edge of a
bench.
A mitre box enables you to make 90-degree cuts in timber and usually 45-degree cuts also.
Note: When cutting timber, cut on the waste side of the line rather than the centre line.
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Various types of mitre boxes
© Eugene Brennan |
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This mitre box has a “lip” or hook on the underside which allows it to be pushed tightly against the edge of a bench.
© Eugene Brennan |
Using a Tenon Saw
A
tenon saw is shorter than a “normal” hand saw and is less cumbersome to
cut with. It also has smaller teeth (the pitch is greater), which
reduces the tendency of the blade to tear or chip the ends of wood
fibers whilst cutting. Thirdly the rigid spine of the saw stops the
blade from curving and warping too much while cutting. All this helps to
give better results, which is important if you are making furniture or
other stuff where accuracy and finish are important.
Kerf of a Saw
When
cutting, position the blade and teeth of the saw so that you cut on the
waste side of the pencil line rather than cutting along the centre of
the line. The kerf or width of the saw cut can produce “gaps”
if you are cutting joints or doing other fine work. The slight error in
length due to the kerf of the saw when cutting on the centre of the
pencil line, can accumulate and cause a greater error (e.g. if several
pieces are cut to size and placed side by side).
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The slots in metal mitre boxes don’t wear away as quick from contact with the teeth of a saw.
© Eugene Brennan |
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A mitre box and tenon saw produced these results
© Eugene Brennan |
Making and Using a Marking Knife
A pencil is fine for rough work, however, a marking knife
never gets blunt and produces a fine line, allowing you to produce more
accurate results when cutting joints. You can make one by cutting a
45-degree angle on an old dinner knife with an angle grinder and then
sharpening it. You could use a Stanley knife, however, the advantage of a
long-bladed, flexible knife is that it can reach into tight spaces.
(This knife also comes in handy for spreading silicone sealant and
putty!)
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A sharpened dinner knife used for marking timber
© Eugene Brennan |
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Using a marking knife to mark a section of timber
© Eugene Brennan |
Recommended Books
Good Wood Joints by Albert Jackson and David Day,
published by Collins is an excellent reference source, with clear,
step-by-step, colourful illustrations showing how to cut all the most
common wood joints and those used less often. It also has a thorough
index of thumbnails photos, detailing which joint should be used for any
particular application. A chapter in the book is dedicated to the type
of hand and power tools required for cutting joints. If you live in the
UK or Ireland, you can buy the book on the Amazon UK website.
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| Photo taken by Eugene Brennan |
How to Cut Angles on the Ends of Timber
You
can only cut the ends of timber square (i.e. at 90 degrees) or 45
degrees using a mitre box. If you need to cut a different angle, the
simplest solution is to use a protractor or a digital angle finder like this one from Amazon.
These are useful for measuring an angle between two sides of timber or
other material or marking an angle before cutting. An angle finder can
also be used as a bevel gauge for transferring angles e.g. when marking
the ends of rafters before cutting. The rules are graduated in inches
and centimetres and angles can be measured to 0.1 degrees.
Use
an angle finder in the same way as a square, described above, for
marking the lines of a cut. So mark the top with the angle finder, draw
lines down both sides using a square, then join the ends of the dropped
lines on the underside.
The quickest and most accurate way however to cut angles is to use a mitre saw as we’ll discover next.
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An angle finder can be used to measure cut timber, and also as a bevel gauge to transfer angles when it’s necessary to cut more pieces.
© Eugene Brennan |
Method 3: Using a Mitre Saw
A
mitre or chop saw is a power saw designed to produce rapid and accurate
90-degree and angled (mitreed) cuts. It’s a virtually essential tool
when framing, i.e. building stud walls. A basic saw will cut timber up
to 4 x 2 in size, but a sliding mitre saw has a cutting head which
slides on a rail, allowing timber up to 9 x 3 to be cut without
requiring a huge diameter disk.
Blades
are available for mitre saws with a varying number of teeth.
Coarse-toothed blades cut rapidly through timber and are ideal for
structural work. Blades with lots of fine teeth are slower at cutting
but give cleaner results with less splintering, important when cutting
architrave, shelving, baseboard (skirting).
It’s
usually possible to calibrate a saw by way of adjusting grub screws to
ensure that the saw actually does give a square cut. You can check your
cuts with a carpenter’s square to see if the saw is cutting accurately
and make adjustments as necessary.
The
kerf, which you’ll remember is the width of the saw cut, is normally
wider, typically 2 or 3 mm (1/8″) for a mitre saw blade than it is for a
hand saw. So it’s more important to cut on the waste side of your
pencil line to avoid inaccuracy.
WARNING
Like any power tool, a mitre saw can be dangerous. Follow these tips to reduce the risk of injury while using a mitre saw.
- Make
sure the guard on the saw is operating correctly and covers the blade
when the cutting head of the saw is returned to its rest position
- Hold timber
securely against the back fence of the saw while cutting, and ensure
that long lengths of timber are adequately supported so that they don’t
overbalance the saw or rise up and hit the blade. Usually, clamps are
provided on the saw for holding timber in place while cutting
- Don’t work with power tools if you are tired. Poor concentration can cause accidents
- Don’t use a
blade with blunt teeth or teeth which have lost their tungsten carbide
tips. A blunt blade can snag in timber causing an accident. It also
gives a ragged, splintered cut on the edges of timber. Either sharpen or
replace the blade.
- Don’t work in wet conditions
- Keep your hand clear of the blade while cutting. You might lose fingers!
- Always wear
safety glasses in case you hit knots or nails/screws in waste timber. If
you are doing lots of cutting, wear earmuffs or plugs and a dust mask
Steps to Cutting With a Mitre Saw
- With power off, set up the saw on a bench, dedicated saw stand or the ground.
- Release lock screws that hold the slide rails, adjustable table and the cutting head.
- Support long
lengths of timber on a roller stand, bench, step ladder, blocks etc to
keep them at the same height as the mitre saw table.
- Measure timber and place a short pencil mark on the edge.
- Turn the saw
table to the desired cut angle. The angle indicated on the mitre scale
is from a reference line passing through the plane of the cutting blade,
so 0º gives a square or 90º cut on the end of timber.
- Position the length of timber on the table so that it butts up against the fence.
- Lower the blade without squeezing the trigger switch and adjust the timber so that the blade coincides with the pencil mark.
- Tighten clamps onto the timber.
- Power on your
saw and squeeze the trigger. Allow the blade to reach full speed and
lower the blade onto the timber. Don’t force the blade into the wood,
you’ll know by the sound of the motor whether it’s struggling to cut. If
you have a sliding mitre saw, cut down fully into the front of the
timber, then push the blade back towards the back of the fence, again
cutting at the rate the saw can handle.
Tip:
For
more accurate results, cut with the left edge of a tooth just to the
right of the pencil mark. Since the kerf of a blade is a couple of mm
wide, this ensures that the length of the cut section will be more
accurate. If you cut on the centre line, your timber will be slightly
shorter than measured.
Calibrating a Mitre Saw
For
general construction work, it’s usually not an issue, however if you
need to make lots of accurate square or angled cuts when making
furniture, shelves etc, it’s a good idea to calibrate a saw first so
that the scales indicate angles correctly. It may be possible to adjust
the pointer on the mitre scale by loosening a screw and turning the
pointer. A limit screw is often included on the cutting head which can
be adjusted so that the head can be positioned quickly to give square bevelled cuts.
Adjustment procedure
For
mitre cuts, adjust the table to 0º. Cut a section of timber and check
the cut end with a carpenter’s square. If the result is off, adjust the
table and cut again. Keep adjusting the table until you’re satisfied
with the results. Adjust the pointer if this is possible so it points to
0º.
Repeat
the procedure for bevelled cuts (cuts with the blade at a variable angle
to the plane of the saw table) with the scale set to 0º. The bevel
scale is usually at the back of the saw where the cutting head pivots
about the sliding rails. There may be a limit screw to set the end of
travel of the cutting head, so once you’re happy that the saw is cutting
at 90º, turn this screw so that it’s tight against the head. If the
scale pointer can be moved, turn this also so that it indicates 0º.
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A mitre saw can make 90 degree square, and angled (mitred) cuts in timber.
© Eugene Brennan |
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This scale indicates the mitre angle. 0 degrees is for cutting right angles. The table can be turned to make cuts up to 45 degrees.
© Eugene Brennan |
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Fine pitch blades are available which give a cleaner cut when cutting e.g. baseboard (skirting) and architrave. A coarse tooth blade is adequate for cutting structural timber.
© Eugene Brennan |
Blunt Tools are Dangerous!
The
teeth on a mitre saw blade should always be kept sharp or the blade
replaced to avoid a serious accident if the blade catches in timber
instead of cutting it.
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Cutting with a mitre saw. The guard retracts when cutting and should return when you raise the cutting head.
© Eugene Brennan |
Mmmmmmm Square!
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A mitre saw gives an accurate cut if it’s setup properly.
© Eugene Brennan |
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A mitre saw is virtually essential for rapidly producing accurate square cuts when framing (building timber frame walls.)
© Eugene Brennan |
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I used a mitre saw to cut all this timber to size.
© Eugene Brennan |
Tips for Cutting Wood Using Hand Saws and Power Saws
- Keep
your hand saws clean. Remove any rust with wire wool or sandpaper.
Lubricate with light oil, Vaseline petroleum jelly or a candle.
- Keep pencils sharp so that they produce a fine marking line and timber can be cut more accurately.
- Timber,
especially softwood, swells somewhat in damp humid weather conditions,
for example if it’s indoors in an unheated garage or warehouse. This can
result in gaps in floorboards or paneling as it shrinks on drying. If
possible allow timber to dry indoors for a few days before using.
Did You Find This Article Useful?
Was the info in this article useful and instructive? How can I improve it? Would you like to ask me any questions?
Please provide some feedback below. Thanks!
References
Jackson, A., & Day, D. (1993). Collins Complete Diy Manual. HarperCollins.
Jackson, A., & Day, D. (2001). Good Wood Joints. Cincinnati, OH: North Light Books.
Disclaimer
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Power
and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before
use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal
protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury.
© 2014 Eugene Brennan
Old Comments From Readers on HubPages
(You can post a comment further down)
robert l reed sr on June 26, 2020:
how do you cut a 2 by 4 or 2by 6 at a 30 degree cut to be straight on the ground or saw buck or picnic table? what type square do I need or what type toll . I am building both
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on June 26, 2020:
Hi Robert,
You can use a protractor which you can buy in a school supplies shop to mark the angle. Alternatively you can use an electronic angle finder as described in the article. Mark the widest section of the timber top and bottom (4″ or 6″ surface). Then draw right angles down the 2″ side and cut by hand. The problem with a mitre saw is that it may limit mitre (angled) cuts to a minimum of45 degrees. If you want to cut at 30 degrees to a long side, the best thing would be to clamp a piece of timber onto the 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 at a 30 degree angle to act as a guide and use a circular saw to make the cuts. Make sure you support the timber adequately while cutting. If the 30 degree angle is with respect to a line drawn at right angles to the long side of a timber, then you can just set the mitre saw to 30 degrees and cut.
Frank on June 24, 2020:
Zero info on the vital part about cutting the angle by hand
Leigh on September 14, 2016:
TERRIFIC DETAIL FOR A NOVICE!
Razlan Awal from Malaysia on January 20, 2015:
Yes, this article is useful and instructive, with lots of photos to guide us through. A well-deserved HOTD award and a good start to your 2015. Well done. Maybe I should copy your template 🙂
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 20, 2015:
Thank you Razlan! It’s probably the way to go now. Google seems to like articles with lots of photos and some of my hubs which have a high image count, and not so much text weren’t affected by the Panda update.
Diane Ziomek from Alberta, Canada on January 19, 2015:
This is an excellent tutorial, as I am starting to do more of my own building. I have done some basic loom frames, but would like to make them prettier. I am also planning on building some animal housing this summer, so this is good to have for a reference. Thank you!
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 20, 2015:
Thanks Diane! If you decide to use metal cladding for the roof of the animal housing, thin angle grinding disks are more effective for cutting this type of material than standard types.
Diane Ziomek from Alberta, Canada on January 20, 2015:
Thank you. That is a good thing to know. I am going to have to go shopping for more tools soon. 🙂
Liz Elias from Oakley, CA on January 19, 2015:
Congratulations on HOTD! Well done, with excellent photos!
My husband and I have done a lot of this sort of work around our home, as well as formerly running a small handyman remodel/repair service. In years before I met him, he was a general contractor. We have a shop full of all these tools and more.
So many people are clueless about handling tools and cutting; not knowing to allow for the saw kerf, which in fine finish work, can make a huge difference. It is somewhat less critical in rough framing, but nevertheless, it is good to have good habits even there. It drives is NUTS these days to see guys using chain saws for framing!
My own miter saw (chop saw), is the type with the blade that lowers down and cuts straight through, not a sliding type. It is stored in the locked-down position.
Voted up, interesting and useful.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thanks for the vote of approval!
Mitre saws do may life easier, especially for framing and for cutting roof timbers. Their cousin, the metal cutoff saw, is great if box, angle or flat lengths of steel need to be cut.
The saw in the photo is a 10 inch model, however I have added removable hardwood spacers so that I can use it with 8 inch blades.
Patsy Bell Hobson from zone 6a, Southeast Missouri, USA on January 19, 2015:
Wow, this is a great hub. And may I say, it makes working with power tools less intimidating to folks unfamiliar with shop tools. Voted up IU, tweet, pin.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Great, thanks for that! Power tools aren’t dangerous once you remember where you’ve put your hands and feet, and keep your head out of the way!
Elsie Hagley from New Zealand on January 19, 2015:
Congratulations for HOTD, you deserve it, explained so well.
But I still think I will leave it to the experts as I have a problem with my shoulder and somehow I can’t hold on to any moving item, never mind old body young heart.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thanks Elsie. Glad you liked it!
DreamerMeg from Northern Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Mitre saws are only useful when no one else borrows them and loses pieces! As you can tell, I did have one and I will get another when I have time to try out a new hobby again. Useful hub, thanks.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Yes, those dreaded borrowers, they won’t buy their own tools and lose bits from yours! I know the feeling – Thanks for the comments!
RoadMonkey on January 19, 2015:
I got myself a mitre saw a few years ago, so I could make my own picture frames. They are very useful.
Mary Norton from Ontario, Canada on January 19, 2015:
Congrats on your HOTD. This will be useful come summer when we go to the cottage and start having projects.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thanks aesta1 , good luck with the projects in your cottage!
Sorry about the quality of the video, I need to make a new one with my smartphone when I get a chance.
RTalloni on January 19, 2015:
Congrats on your Hub of the Day award for this tutorial with useful information on saws and other tools. This is a very useful post for people interested in learning to cut wood correctly. Your old square is neat to see.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thank you RTalloni! , much obliged for the comments!
Emily Tack from USA on January 19, 2015:
Great article, and wish I had written it first! Kidding…
A few years ago, I decided to make my own bed. I really should have taken photos along the way, of my project, but I was determined to get it finished as fast as I could.
It only took me about 3 days, working on it in the evenings, after I got home from our store. I measured the two mattresses I intended to use, and left myself some leeway, for bedding. On a mission, I made a double-decker, full-size bed, constructed out of 4×4’s and 2×4’s; complete with a ladder to the second deck. I thought it would be great, when the grandchildren stayed over – it was, too!
After my creative frenzy was finished, and my lovely bed was ready to sleep in, it “dawned on me” that I could have been finished with my project in a fraction of the time it took, if I had used an electric miter saw. I had made it with my square, my wooden miter box, my old hand-held power saw, and my ancient hand saw, and my power drill. What was I thinking?
The finished product was delightful, and I really enjoyed sleeping in it; convinced it was the most comfortable bed in which I had ever slept.
Then, I remarried, after being a widow for over 10 years, and moved into my husband’s home. One of my grown children and their family moved into my room, at my old house, and had beds of their own. My beloved bed had to go. It was so large, that they could not get it out of my old bedroom, so they dismantled it. I felt bereft of an old friend; it was a great bed!
Shortly after I built the bed, I bought myself an electric miter saw. What a joy it was to use! I should have done that before I started on the bed. The next time I take on a big project, it will most definitely come into play.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thanks for the comments Emily , and the anecdote!……
Many years ago, I made a bench for my desktop computer which was destined for an attic room. I had stupidly guesstimated the width of the doorway instead of measuring it, and yes you guessed it, the finished bench was too wide to fit through the door! I was practicing making mortice and tenon joints and of course these were glued together. Luckily I discovered my error in time before the glue dried and was able to do some disassembling, and reassembling inside the attic. If I ever remove it, its going to have to be cut up!
Dennis L. Page from New York/Pennsylvania border on January 19, 2015:
When I began woodworking several decades ago, it was by trial and error. I probably would have saved a lot of money and wood if I had your wonderful article and pictorial guide way back then. This is a great post for those looking to get into the joy of woodworking.
Eugene Brennan (author) from Ireland on January 19, 2015:
Thank you Dennis!
It was the same for me, learning by trial and error over the last thirty years or so. Wood is a wonderful material to work with, planing and carving especially, is very satisfying. I think craftwork, whatever form it takes, alongside exercise, is great therapy for body and mind.
Judy Specht from California on May 16, 2014:
Love our miter saw. We struggled for years with a miter box or cutting by hand. Nice instructions.
