20 Tools You Need for Home Maintenance and DIY

© Eugene Brennan

So you want to start doing maintenance in your first home to save money or you’re fed up taking time off from work and waiting for tradesmen who don’t turn up on time? Many of us are stuck at home under lockdown because of COVID19, with an appetite for trying new things to pass the time, so why not DIY? Anyone can do basic DIY and whether you want to progress to more advanced projects depends on how brave you are, your level of patience and whether you’re willing to learn by trial and error, with a couple of disasters along the way! This guide identifies the most common tools required for basic home maintenance so you’ll know what to ask for when you go to a store. Of course you don’t have to buy them all at once! A toolkit is put together over a lifetime and tools can be bought as the need arises.

Tool Names

This is a comprehensive list of useful tools that you can buy as you need them.

1. Hammers
2. Philips and flat screwdrivers
3. Pliers
4. Snips
5. Saws
6. Locking pliers
7. Measuring tapes
8. Wrenches (Spanners)
9. Socket set
10. Pipe wrench and water pump pliers
11. Ladders
12. Voltage testers
13. Torches
14. Paint brushes
15. Drill bits
16. Metal detector/stud finder and live wire detector
17. Cordless drill
18. SDS drill
19. Utility knife with disposable blades
20. Tippex marker

Choosing Tools for DIY

These tools are sufficient for doing basic maintenance jobs around the home like tightening screws on cupboard doors, hanging pictures, tightening loose nuts, wiring mains plugs, tightening power sockets, cutting and fixing sections of timber and basic plumbing.

It’s also a good idea to stock up on essential materials and fixings such as nails, wood screws, wall plugs, assorted nuts, bolts, washers and machine screws, insulating tape, spare blades for a utility knife, super-glue, epoxy resin and cable ties etc.

1. Hammers

• A claw hammer is used for hammering nails, pulling them out and general bashing of stuff. A standard hammer head weighs 1 lb, however you can buy lighter hammers for use with smaller gauge nails, e.g. a tack hammer.
• A lump hammer or builder’s hammer has a heavy head, useful for breaking bricks or blocks, driving large nails, using with a cold chisel for chopping concrete and any other application that requires brute force.
• A sledge hammer is a heavy two handed hammer used for driving posts into the ground, breaking concrete and similar heavy duty jobs that require a large impact force.

Claw hammer (top) and builders (lump) hammer
© Eugene Brennan

2. Philips and Flat Screwdrivers

Various sizes of Phillips and flat head screwdrivers, large and small. There are a few options:

• Buy screwdrivers individually or as set
• Buy a screwdriver handle with a tip that takes various sizes of screwdriver bits
• A cordless drill/driver combi with screwdriver bits

Sets of screwdrivers sometimes include an awl for making holes prior to driving screws or drilling. This looks like a screwdriver but has a pointed tip which is pushed into wood or plastic and turned to make a hole.

Various screwdriver sizes
© Eugene Brennan

This screwdriver has a blade tip suitable for Phillips screws
© Eugene Brennan

An awl is used for making holes prior to driving screws or drilling.
© Eugene Brennan

3. Pliers

Standard pliers for holding, pulling, bending, twisting etc. They can also be used to undo small nuts.

A long (snipe) nose pliers is better for reaching into places that a standard jaw pliers can’t access. It’s also used for bending ends of wires, holding parts and is a standard tool for electrical/electronic work.

4. Snips (Side-Cutters)

A wire snips is useful for cutting and stripping the insulation from wire when wiring plugs, socket outlets, lighting outlets. You can also use it to snip cable ties, tie wire or light gauge netted wire.

From left to right, standard pliers, long (snipe) nose pliers, wire snips (side cutters)
© Eugene Brennan

5. Saws

• A standard carpenter’s hand saw for cutting wood (lumber). You can use it for crosscutting lengths of timber or for cutting through sheets of plywood or MDF
• A tenon saw is smaller with finer teeth and better suited for neater cutting of e.g. architrave
• A junior hacksaw takes disposable blades and can be used for cutting small pieces of metal, bolts, threaded bar, PEX and copper pipe
• A mitre box is an inexpensive guide that you can use for making neat square and angled cuts on the end of architrave, baseboard (skirt board) or other timber up to 2 x 4 in cross section

A hand saw is useful for cutting the odd length of timber, without the hassle of taking out power tools and an extension lead
© Eugene Brennan

A tenon saw has finer teeth and gives a neater cut. When used with a mitre box, you can make neat cuts on the end of timber.
© Eugene Brennan

A junior hacksaw can be used for cutting copper and plastic tubing, bolts and other light metal parts
© Eugene Brennan

6. Locking-Pliers

A locking pliers (also known by the brand name “Vice Grip” or “Mole wrench”) can be used for holding nuts, bolts, bars or anything to prevent it turning. It can also be used as a general purpose clamp for holding two parts together.

Using a locking pliers to hold the body of an outside tap while undoing the top
© Eugene Brennan

Junior hacksaw and locking pliers (vise grips)
© Eugene Brennan

7. Measuring Tapes

• A 6 m (20 foot) measuring tape is perfect for general purpose use
• A smaller 3 m tape is small and compact and you can slip it into your pocket for measuring stuff while you go shopping for furniture or building materials

Tape marked with inch and centimetre graduations. A 3 metre (10 foot) tape is nice and compact and fits in a pocket. A 6 or 7 metre tape can be used for longer measurements
© Eugene Brennan

8. Wrenches (Spanners)

Wrenches, known as spanners in the UK, are used for tightening nuts, bolts, taps, plumbing fittings, wall fixings and anything else that requires a nut to be tightened.

You can buy either open ended wrenches or combination wrenches. The latter are open at one end and ring at the other end. The ring part makes for quicker tightening of nuts without having to take the wrench off the nut or bolt head and put it back on again. Ring or combination spanners can also be used for situations when a nut needs to be undone but the threaded section of the bolt extends too far beyond the nut to fit into a socket.

For domestic work, sockets or wrenches don’t need to be greater than 3/4 inch AF (across the flats) or about 22 mm in size.

You can use an adjustable wrench with jaws that can be adjusted to suit the size of a nut or bolt head. However unless you buy an expensive version, there can be a certain amount of play in the jaws when tightened, which can round the corners on a hex profile fixing if they’re used often. They are useful however for dealing with large nuts/bolts when a fixed size wrench would be expensive.

Combination spanners (wrenches)
© Eugene Brennan

Combination spanners
Public domain by fantereis via Pixabay

9. Socket Set

A socket wrench and socket does the same job as a wrench but the ratchet action makes things quicker and easier because you can just pump the handle to tighten or release a nut or bolt. With a wrench you have to continually remove and replace the jaws of the wrench onto a nut/bolt head. A socket wrench is often used in conjunction with a standard wrench, the wrench for holding a nut and the socket wrench for releasing/tightening the bolt (or vice versa).
The disadvantage of a socket wrench is that you can’t use it to tighten nuts on long bolts or threaded bar because a socket mightn’t be deep enough. You can always use a ring spanner in this scenario or a through socket and wrench.

Buy a 6 point set. These are less likely to wear/damage the corners of nuts and bolt heads or the socket itself than 12 point sockets.

Socket wrench set
StockSnap, public domain image via Pixabay.com

10. Pipe Wrench (“Stilson”) and Water Pump Pliers

If you’re going to do any home plumbing, these are useful tools to have for dismantling taps, radiator valves, unscrewing and tightening pipes and plumbing fittings and large nuts (which would normally require a very large wrench). The jaws and handles of a water pump pliers aren’t in line, so it’s easier to access and turn nuts on e.g. a radiator valve without the handles being obstructed by the wall.

Pipe wrenches or “Stilsons”
Stevepb, public domain via Pixabay.com

Tightening a nut on a compression fitting with a water pump pliers and vice grips (locking pliers).
© Eugene Brennan

11. Ladders

• A step ladder is virtually essential for interior and exterior maintenance. You’ll inevitably need to clean windows, cut hedges, water hanging baskets, paint, clean cobwebs or clean low-level gutters. A step ladder is safer than standing on a chair or stool because you have a top bar to hold onto to prevent losing your balance
• An extension ladder allows you to access top gutters, paint your house, clean the outside of windows, cut limbs from trees etc

Public domain image via Wikimedia Commons

12. Voltage Testers

• A digital multimeter (DMM) can be used to measure voltage, current, test continuity of fuses and wires and check batteries
• A screwdriver phase tester or non-contact voltage tester can be used for detecting whether a cable or other electrical parts are “live”. The neon bulb in a screwdriver tester glows when the tip of the screwdriver’s blade is touched off a live conductor. It’s essential to use one of these to double check power is definitely off after switching the power off using the MCB at the electrical panel. A non-contact voltage tester such as a Fluke VoltAlert doesn’t require you to make contact with the live conductor and can be used for checking whether power is present at a socket outlet, on a power cord or other points in an electrical circuit or appliance.

What Multimeter to Buy?

Fluke, a leading US manufacturer of digital instrumentation, promotes the Fluke 113 model for general purpose use in the home or for car maintenance. This is an excellent meter and can measure AC and DC volts, resistance, check continuity and diodes. The meter is auto-ranging, so ranges don’t have to be set. It is also a true-RMS meter. It doesn’t measure current, so If you need to measure AC and DC current, the Fluke 115 has this added facility.

Fluke 113 general purpose true RMS digital multimeter.
By permission, Fluke Corporation.

Phase tester for checking whether power is present at a socket outlet
© Eugene Brennan

A Fluke non-contact detector “VoltAlert” like this one available from Amazon is a standard tool in any electricians tool kit, but useful for homeowners also. I use one of these for identifying which conductor is live whenever I’m doing any home maintenance. Unlike a neon screwdriver (phase tester), you can use one of these in situations when live parts/wires are shrouded or covered with insulation and you can’t make contact with wires. It also comes in useful for checking whether there’s a break in a power flex and where the break occurs.

Fluke VoltAlert, non-contact voltage tester.
Image from Amazon by permission Fluke Corporation

13. Torches

• High powered LED torches are now available that produce a lot more light than traditional types that used an incandescent bulb. LEDs also last practically forever and don’t break if you drop the torch.
• A head torch is extremely useful, I use one for all sorts of maintenance around the house when I need my two hands free

LED torch with zoomable beam. Runs on a single AA cell. Much brighter than a double AA Maglite.
Single AA cell flashlight

A head torch keeps your hands free so you can use your tools more effectively in badly lit locations
© Eugene Brennan

14. Paint Brushes

At some stage you might decide to try your skills at painting. The 4 most useful sizes are 1/2 inch, 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch and 2 inch. For painting walls, a larger brush about 5 to 6 inches wide is needed. Cheap brushes tend to have a smaller number of thick bristles that can leave brush marks on surfaces. Better quality brushes have a larger amount of fine bristles. This holds paint better and stops it running back towards the handle. Buy mid-priced range brushes and keep them clean and they’ll last for years.

You can also use a roller for painting internal walls and external flat render.

Public domain image via Wikimedia Commons

Painting with a roller
Jarmoluk, public domain image via Pixabay.com

15. Drill bits

You’re going to need these for making holes

• HSS bits for drilling metal or plastic
• Wood bits for timber. There are several choices: Flat bits, lip and spur bits, auger bits and hole saws for large holes
• Masonry bits for drilling concrete, breeze blocks, bricks and stone

See my guide “Choosing the Right Drill Bit for Metal, Wood, Tiles, Glass, or Masonry” for lots more info

Drill bits – From left to right masonry bit, lip and spur bit and HSS bit
Capri23auto via Pixabay.com

16. Metal Detector/Stud Finder and Live Wire Detector

This tool is for finding metal in walls and live wires before drilling. Many of these detectors also include a stud finder option that allows you to find studs that you can use for driving screws into when hanging pictures or cabinets.

17. Cordless Drill

A cordless drill is an essential power tool if you need to drive a lot of screws. A combi drill is used for drilling and driving screws. Most 18 volt drills can be used for drilling holes in concrete if you need to insert wall plugs for fixing stuff to walls, but an inexpensive corded SDS drill is faster and more powerful for drilling large holes.

Cordless drill / screwdriver
© Eugene Brennan

18. SDS Drill

You can buy a corded or cordless version. A corded version is a lot cheaper, but obviously has the inconvenience of a trailing power cord.
SDS drills have pneumatic percussion action so they can rapidly drill holes in masonry for wall plugs if you need to fix cupboards to walls. You can also easily drill larger holes in concrete when running plumbing tubing or cables.

For more info on cordless and corded drills see my guide:

A Complete Beginner’s Guide to Power Tools (Drills, Sanders, Grinders, Multitools, Dremels & Saws)

An SDS drill
© Eugene Brennan

19. Utility Knife With Disposable Blades – (Stanley Knife)

These are sometimes referred to generically as “Stanley knives” from the name of the manufacturer. Disposable blades are now a standard size for all manufacturer’s knifes and readily available from discount stores. The most common type has a retractable blade, but folding versions are also available that stowaway the blade safely into a hollow slot in the handle. When not using your knife, keep the blade retracted into the casing to prevent accidental cuts.

Carpet knife or “Stanley” knife
Eikira, public domain image via Pixabay.com

20. Tippex Marker

Yes, I know they’re used as correction pens, but a Tippex marker is great for marking dark surfaces. If you use a pencil or felt tip marker, it can be difficult to see the mark, but a Tippex marker produces a white line that’s really prominent.

Marking roof cladding with a correction marker
© Eugene Brennan

Recommended Books

I learned a huge amount of information from this book! The Collins Complete DIY Manual is an excellent guide, comprehensively covering plumbing, electrics, woodwork, heating, garden construction, paving, plasterwork, glass cutting, painting, tiling and all other aspects of home maintenance and improvement. This older version from Amazon UK contains a lot more info than the newer editions.
Note that electrical wiring information in this manual is geared towards UK users and may not satisfy more recent and stricter regulations.

© Eugene Brennan

Disclaimer

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury.

© 2011 Eugene Brennan

What Are the Settings for on a Cordless Drill?

© Eugene Brennan

What Do the Numbers Mean on a Cordless Drill?

Cordless tools are great and, unlike their corded counterparts, they have the obvious advantage of freedom from a power cord that can get in the way, become taut when manoeuvring the tool or end up being tripped over. Also you don’t have to be lugging extension leads around.

How to Lay Concrete Kerbs Along a Driveway

Laying edging kerbs is a simple DIY job with this guide!
© Eugene Brennan

Give Your Driveway a Crisp, Clean Look

Edging a lawn or driveway gives it a crisp, clean look and helps the eye to define the boundary between lawn or flower beds and the harder look of the concrete, stone or tarmac (asphalt) surface of your drive.

8 Types of Wall Anchors and Fixings: Which Should You Use?

© Eugene Brennan

How to Mount Shelves, Cabinets, and More

Fixing stuff to walls is relatively easy, in fact I’ve been doing it since I was 13! My home-made wall plugs made from branches weren’t such a good idea though, and my first shelves fell of the wall when the plugs dried out! In fact, the method used to mount cabinets, brackets for shelves, coat hooks, etc., on a wall depends on the nature of the wall construction. In this guide, I cover some the various fixings available to attach items to different types of wall material, including timber studs, plasterboard (drywall) and masonry walls.

Various fixings are used depending on the structure of the surface you’ll be mounting on. If you’re fixing to timber or wooden studs under drywall, you just use screws, but for drywall itself or masonry, the fixing either holds onto the back of the drywall, or expands in the hole respectively. These are the fixings you’ll typically use:

1. Self-drive anchors
2. Spring toggle anchors
3. Hollow expansion anchors
4. Wall plugs
5. Expansion bolts
6. Frame fixings
7. Express nail anchors
8. Philips head screws

Note: The name for the device used to attach items to walls differs between countries. In the US, the term “anchor” is more common, whereas in the UK, the term “fixing” is used. Also what’s called “plasterboard” in the UK is referred to as “drywall” in the US.

“Fixing” is the British term for “anchor” (US).

“Drywall” is the American term for “plasterboard” (UK).

Precautions When Drilling and Fixing to Walls

• Determine whether there are any services (electric or signal cables or water, gas or waste pipes) in the walls before drilling. Ideally turn off power if possible. A detector will help to locate some services.
• Use a sufficiently short drill so that you don’t drill through to the other side.
• Use a mask when drilling to protect yourself from sawdust or cement dust.

What Tools Are Needed for Fixing to Walls?

• Pencil or marker
• Drill for drilling holes
• Screwdriver or cordless drill/driver
• Spirit level or a good eye!
• Drill bits

If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal.

Mounting to Stud Walls

Light items, such as small picture frames, wall clocks etc., can be screwed directly to timber panelling/boards if you don’t have drywall.

For items carrying heavy loads, a more secure method is to drive screws into the center of the wall studs. Heavier items such as cabinets and TV brackets need to be fixed to the wall studs with 10 or 11 gage (about 5mm diameter) screws. Modern LED TVs are quite light compared to CRT or plasma types, so you may get away with mounting the brackets directly onto boards or drywall.

How to Find Studs

Plasterboard (drywall) is nailed onto a hollow timber framework known as a stud wall or framing, built from 2 x 4s. (2 inch x 4 inch cross section timbers) or larger cross sectional area (CSA) timber. This is composed of vertical and horizontal sections called studs and noggings (blocking) respectively.

Studs are typically spaced 16″ (400mm) apart and can be found with an electronic stud detector or identifying where drywall sheets butt together at the centre of a stud. You can find a stud by tapping the wall and when you locate a point where the sound is less “hollow,” a stud is underneath.

If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal (useful for finding plumbing and other services in the wall and/or power cables).

Mounting and Screwing to Stud Walls

Once you have found a stud, mark its center, and screw your fixture onto the wall with wood screws. Plasterboard is generally 13 mm (1/2 inch) to 16 mm (5/8 inch) thick, so make sure you size the length of screws appropriately. i.e. allow for the thickness of the plasterboard and the fixture, with 40 mm (1 1/2 inch) of screw thread actually screwing into the stud.

Metal shelf brackets usually have pre-drilled holes. Cabinets sometimes have flat pieces of metal at the back from which the cabinet can be screwed to the wall and “suspended”. If the back of a cabinet is fairly thick and not just thin hardboard, you can drive screws straight through from front to back and into the wall. If the back of a cabinet isn’t pre-drilled, drill holes the same diameter as the screws you are using and then screw the screws into the wall. Choose the length of the screw to cater for the combined thickness of the back of the cabinet and drywall.

Stud Wall
Ahp378, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

Fixings for Mounting to Plasterboard (Drywall)

For mounting to studs and plasterboard (also known as drywall), there are several options. You can use plastic wall plugs (see mounting on masonry walls below) directly pushed into the plaster. However, these are only suitable for very light loads (e.g., small mirrors, light picture frames and smoke alarms). The appropriate fixings for drywall are metal or plastic self-drive fixings (anchors), spring toggle anchors or hollow expansion anchors. For heavier loads, screw directly into the wall studs.

1. Self-Drive Anchors

These are small metal or plastic fixings with a coarse outer thread and inner thread which takes a screw. These will either have a cutting edge and make their own hole in the plasterboard/drywall or you may have to drill a small pilot hole first. The pilot hole diameter may be marked on the fixing, but if not, drill a hole the diameter of the unthreaded core of the fixing in the plasterboard. Now drive the fixing into the plasterboard either using a special dedicated drive bit for a cordless drill or a normal screwdriver. Then attach whatever you are hanging on the the wall to the fixing using the screw provided. These are fine for mounting socket outlets, switches, light fittings on ceilings and other light loads.

Self-drive drywall anchors and drive bit for cordless drill. Metal versions are also available. The pilot hole size which needs to be drilled in the plasterboard (6mm), is marked on the fixing
Smial, Free Art Licence via Wikimedia Commons

2. Spring Toggle Anchors

Alternatively, you can use spring toggle fixings. You drill a hole for these, insert the fitting into the hole and two spring loaded arms open out at the back of the drywall giving anchorage. These provide better anchorage than self-drive anchors which could pull out of the drywall if the load is heavy. The disadvantage of these is that if the screw is removed, the toggle will fall down inside the wall. They also require a relatively large hole drilled in the drywall.

Spring toggle anchors
Tenbergen, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

3. Hollow Expansion Anchors

The hollow shell of these anchors expands as the screw is tightened, pushing against the back surface of the drywall. This gives good grip and the fixings are suitable for heavier loads such as TV brackets. They are available in plastic or metal versions.

Hollow expansion anchors
Dmitry G, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

Hollow expansion anchor.

Fixings for Mounting to Masonry Walls

Masonry includes concrete blocks, bricks, solid concrete wall, stone and aerated concrete blocks. Typical fixings include:

• wall plugs
• expansion bolts
• frame fixings
• express anchors
• Philips head screws

Tools Required

1. Cordless or corded, hammer action, power drill
2. Masonry drill bit. A 1/4 inch (6mm) bit for drilling the holes and 6 mm wall plugs are ideal for mounting light shelf brackets, socket and switch outlets, etc. Use an 5/16 (8mm) bit and wall plugs for heavier loads (cupboards, bookshelves etc).

Drilling Holes and Mounting

• Before drilling a wall make sure you know where cables and pipes are routed. You can buy a voltage detector for detecting the presence of power cables.

4. Wall Plugs

If a wall is solid construction you must use plastic screw anchors also known as wall plugs. These expand and grip the side of the hole when a screw is driven into them.

The hole is drilled to adequate depth, the wall plug inserted and the fixture screwed onto the wall with 8 or 10 gage (4mm or 5mm) diameter screws. 40 to 50 mm (1 1/2 to 2 inch) long screws are fine for most applications. Use thicker wall plugs and screws for heavier loads.

Typical wall plug/anchors for masonry walls. The required drill bit size in mm is indicated on the shank
Bronzaclose, Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication via Wikimedia Commons

To attach a bracket to a wall, first position it against the wall and mark the first hole with a pencil or nail. Don’t mark all the holes because if the drilled hole goes off course, or is a little to one side, the other holes will be out of alignment. Drill the hole with a suitable diameter masonry drill bit, rake or vacuum out the dust and insert the anchor into the hole. Place the bracket against the wall again and line up the center of the anchor in the wall with the hole in the bracket. Mark the next hole and drill it. Repeat for all the holes and finally attach the bracket with wood screws.

If you’re mounting shelf brackets, hold the second bracket against the wall and either rest the shelf on the two brackets and level with a spirit level or if the span is short you can just rest the level on the two brackets without the shelf. Mark the top hole in the second bracket, drill the hole for the screw fitting and then mark and drill the remaining holes as described above. Finally, screw the bracket to the wall.

To use wall plugs (rawplugs), drill the recommended size hole with a hammer action power drill and masonry drill bit and use the proper screw size. The fixing expands as the screw is driven home and grips the side of the hole. People sometimes generically refer to wall plugs as “Rawlplugs” because the wall plug was invented by John Joseph Rawlings, the founder of the Rawlplug company.
Wall plugs normally have the drill diameter marked on them and possibly also the max diameter screw that can be used.

Screw sizes and the bit size for the hole are sometimes marked on the wall plugs.
© Eugene Brennan

Masonry drill bit
Emrys2, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

Drilling Concrete for Wall Plugs

5. Expansion Bolts

If you need to mount heavy loads on masonry walls, there are a couple of options. You can use expansion bolts (wedge anchors) and these are available in a variety of configurations. The most basic type shown in the photos below has a bolt which screws into an outer sleeve. A suitably sized hole is drilled in a wall (the diameter is usually printed on the anchor) and the expansion part of the fixing is inserted in the hole. The bolt is passed through the fixture being attached to the wall and the bolt tightened with a wrench. The fixing expands and securely grips the side of the hole. You can get these fixings with a hook or eye at the end for attaching cables and ropes etc (e.g., a clothes line). Another type has a nut rather than a bolt head at the end.

Important! Expansion fittings shouldn’t be excessively tightened to avoid cracking concrete. They should also be kept in a minimum distance from the edge of concrete or solid blocks. A crack in this case could cause a section to break off and the bolt to lose its grip on the masonry.

Expansion bolt (Wedge anchor)
© Eugene Brennan

When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve expands and grips the side of the hole
© Eugene Brennan

6. Frame Fixings

For fixing timber frames to concrete or brick walls, you have two options: frame fixings or express anchors.

Lengths of timber, stud walls or any other type of thick material can be fixed to masonry with frame fixings. These are like a long wall plug. An 8mm to 10mm hole is first drilled through timber and masonry behind it and the fixing tapped home until the edge is flush with the timber. Then the screw is either screwed or hammered into the plastic sleeve. You can also use these fixings for attaching things to masonry walls, after the walls have been insulated with composite drywall/insulation boards, e.g., radiators. Choose an appropriate length so that the part of the fixing that expands is within the masonry.

Frame fixing

7. Express Anchors

Express anchors represent another option for attaching timber beams, fence posts, door frames etc to walls. These fixings are hollow with a slot in the side and slightly larger than the hole which is drilled for them. When hammered into a hole, they squeeze tight and wedge firmly into position. They can also be used for joining timber as they provide the advantage of a screw, resisting being pulled out, and the convenience of a nail. The disadvantage of course is that unlike a frame fixing, they are permanent and can’t be easily removed.

Note! Neither frame fixings nor express anchors are recommended for fixing into cavity blocks. In any case, they should be at least 4 inches (100mm) in from the edges of blocks and spaced no closer than 4 inches to prevent cracking of the masonry.

Express nail anchor
© Eugene Brennan

Express anchors can be used for attaching timbers to walls
© Eugene Brennan

8. Philips Head Screws

For brick or stud walls, I generally use Spax wood screws or similar. These type of screws have a tip which drills through timber as the screw is driven, making for easier driving. A Philips head allows you to drive the screw with a cordless drill.

Spax wood screws
© Eugene Brennan

Frequently Asked Questions

What screws should I use for brick or stud walls?

Spax wood screws or similar with a Philips head have a special tip that makes drilling easier.

What are the strongest drywall anchors?

Spring toggle anchors provide the most anchorage when it comes to drywall/plasterboard.

What kinds of anchors can hold a TV?

Hollow expansion anchors are suitable for heavy loads, such as TVs.

How do I mount heavy items on walls?

Heavy items should be mounted to a stud, if possible. If you are not mounting on a stud, use a toggle anchor. The size of the toggle depends on the weight of the piece and the thickness of the wall. If you are mounting a heavy item on a masonry wall, use an expansion bolt (anchor wedge).

How much weight can a toggle anchor hold?

The thicker the anchor, the more weight it can hold. A thick toggle anchor can hold up to 50 pounds. Hollow expansion anchors can hold up to 100 pounds.

Disclaimer 

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury. 

© 2011 Eugene Brennan

lucille12 on April 05, 2015:

The right hangers can certainly help in organizing your home and eliminating the piles that lay around the home.

How to Build a Low-Maintenance Garden Storage Shed From Steel Cladding

© Eugene Brennan

The epic saga of the two year construction of a garden shed…

Have you ever wanted to build your own garden shed? I always have and attempted my first one when I was about 10 years old, but abandoned the project because of lack of materials, skills and tools! Eventually, 40 years later, I got around to building a proper garden tool shed.

How to Use a String Trimmer Properly Without Breaking the Line!

Petrol and electric corded trimmers
© Eugene Brennan

This garden power tool has many names depending on where you live in the world, but one thing is sure — it certainly beats a hedge shears for trimming and edging! Like most power tools nowadays, string trimmers are available in petrol, electric corded and rechargeable battery cordless versions.