Home and Garden Guidebook

Wednesday, 4 November 2026

Checking Power Consumption of Appliances With an Energy Monitoring Adapter

How to Measure Power

With the cost of electricity on the increase, an energy monitoring adapter is a useful device that can measure and track the energy consumption of your home appliances.

Tuesday, 3 November 2026

Over 20 Essential Gardening Tools for Beginners

Green hand gardening tools including trowel, fork, weeder and measured trowel under the arched text Which Gardening Tools?
Original uncaptioned image
public domain via Pixabay.com

Essential Maintenance in Your Garden During the Summer

Summer is here and everything is now growing at full pace, so now’s a good time to stock up on tools if you haven’t done so already and get stuck into work in the garden!

Getting Started With the Proper Tools

This is a guide for beginner gardeners giving some basic info on selecting tools for the yard and garden. You may have moved into your first house and just need to buy tools out of necessity in order to do basic maintenance. Alternatively, you could be landscaping your new garden or rearranging an existing layout. In this article, we’ll discuss these tools.

What Basic Tools Do I Need?

If you don’t have a garden and only have the space to grow in pots and planters, a hand trowel and sweeping brush for cleaning up mess are probably the only garden tools you’ll need. For watering, you can get away with a plastic bottle, kettle or jug, but a small watering can is useful.

Only a few other tools can be considered essential, so you can just buy the others as you need them. First, here are the 5 most essential:

  1. Hand trowel (planter)
  2. Watering can
  3. Spade
  4. Rake
  5. Garden shears (hedge clippers)

Note:If you have a proper garden with flower beds, shrubs, and trees, then a spade for digging, hedge cutters for trimming and rake for gathering up leaves and clippings are practically essential.

1. Hand Trowel (Planter)

For planting flowers in beds, planters, pots or window boxes in summer, a hand trowel/planter is necessary. These are available with wooden, plastic or metal handles. Wood tends to have a better grip in the hand than plastic.

Teal metal garden trowel with perforated handle against a white background
Steel garden trowel
GFDL, CC by SA 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

2. Watering Can

What’s It For?

You can get away with using a bucket, but a watering can is better for watering window boxes, pots, etc. You can also use it for rinsing off concrete or garden seating that you’ve cleaned. It can also be used as a portable water source for refilling small hand sprayers.

Things to Consider:

The capacity of a watering can is normally 2 gallons or 9 litres. A smaller can with a gallon capacity or less is very handy and easier to lift when watering hanging baskets or other containers at a height. Watering cans are made of plastic or galvanised steel. Plastic cans should be kept out of the sun as UV makes the plastic brittle over time.

Green plastic watering can standing on concrete in front of a corrugated metal fence
2 gallon watering can
DonBanana, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons
Small orange plastic watering can with long spout on a white background
Smaller capacity can, suitable for watering hanging baskets
Dake, CC by SA 2.5 generic via Wikimedia Commons

3. Spade

What’s It For?

This is probably the most essential gardening tool for digging holes to plant trees, shrubs, and large flowers.

You can also use a spade for hoeing weeds, although it would be heavier than a hoe which is the proper tool for the job. A spade can be used for edging flower beds and for shoveling small quantities of material. Spades can also be used for chopping the roots of small trees before digging them up.

Things to Consider:

You can buy a spade with a long or short handle. Long handles have more leverage and further reach but this results in a spade a little heavier than one with a short handle. Also, it can be awkward to use in a confined space such as a small glass house. The blade can be long or short. 9 inches should be fine. Anything longer is unwieldy. Spades and other tools are available which are made of stainless steel. This doesn’t rust, but can be more expensive and heavier. If the dirt is shaken, knocked or washed off a garden tool before it is stored in a dry shed or garage, corrosion shouldn’t be an issue.

It’s essential to have the blade of a spade razor sharp to make digging easier. You can do this with a carborundum sharpening stone or an angle grinder if you have access to one. If the blade is very sharp, there is no harm wearing steel toe cap shoes or boots in the garden to protect your toes if you miss your aim digging!

Quick Fact

Many garden tools are now available with fiberglass/plastic handles which unlike wood don’t become rotten, infested by woodworm or splinter.

Two wooden-handled garden spades, one with T-handle and one with straight handle, leaning against a grey door
Long and short handled spades
Alupus, CC SA 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

4. Garden Shears (Hedge Clippers or Trimmer)

What’s It For?

You will need one of these if you have hedges, shrubs or trees. Shears can also be used to trim grass along pavements, curbs, or edges of flower beds, as well as around trees and shrubs.

Things to Consider:

Try to buy a pair of shears that is mid-priced. Cheap shears have thinner blades which don’t hold their shape and can twist and warp if overloaded while trying to cut thick branches. (Shears aren’t designed for doing this in any case—see loppers and saws below). With more expensive models you are just paying for the name.

Woman kneeling on grass using long-handled hedge shears to trim a low green box hedge
Hedge shears/trimmers

5. Rake

What’s It For?

Rakes are useful for raking leaves and other debris into a pile. A lawn rake is used for raking moss and leaves (thatch) from a lawn surface.

Things to Consider:

Rake with the wind. This will make for a less frustrating and time-consuming experience.

Assortment of leaf rakes, garden tools and a watering can stored against a white brick wall in a shed
Various types of rakes
liz west, CC 2.0 generic via Wikimedia Commons

What Tools Can be Bought Later?

As your garden evolves with more chores to take care of, you can start to build up your arsenal of tools. Here are 10 of the most useful to have around:

  1. Wheelbarrow
  2. Shovel
  3. Secateurs
  4. Hoe
  5. Fork
  6. Hand Weeding Tool
  7. Axe, pickaxe, and hatchet
  8. Step ladder
  9. Garden hose
  10. Sprayer

1. Wheelbarrow

What’s It For?

For shifting large quantities of stuff when you get fed up using a bucket or garbage bags. A wheelbarrow is pretty much essential for moving large amounts of soil, gravel, hedge clippings and compost from A to B.

Things to Consider:

Available with large and small capacities. You can buy one with a plastic body which won’t rust but you can’t fire stuff like rocks into it! Try to get a good strong one which will last. Check the supports on the underside of the body as often this is a weak point.

Galvanised metal wheelbarrow with green frame and orange hand grips on a concrete floor
Galvanised wheel barrow
MarkusHagenlocher, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons

2. Shovel

What’s It For?

For shifting material such as dirt/soil, sand, gravel or compost you will need a shovel.

Things to Consider:

These are available in a multitude of shapes and sizes depending on the application. Similar to spades, they can be long or short handled, the blade can be made of steel, stainless steel or aluminum (good for shoveling snow because the blade is light). Also, the blade can be pointed, often called a builders shovel, which makes it easy to dig into a pile, or flat as in the case of a grain shovel. These are like a dustpan and good for sweeping up stuff in conjunction with a brush or rake.

Collection of different shaped metal garden shovels and spades
Various types of shovels
Tiesse, public domain via Wikimedia Commons

3. Secateurs (Pruning Shears or Pruners)

What’s It For?

It can be used for pruning roses but also to snip lumps off shrubs and trees which are getting in your way. Don’t cut material beyond about 3/8 or 10mm thickness or you will strain the tool!

Things to Consider:

There are two types; bypass, and anvil. A bypass secateurs is like scissors or hedge shears, a cutting blade slides by a blunt ‘blade’ called a hook. An anvil shear has a single cutting blade that cuts into a branch pushed against a flat surface or ‘anvil’.A bypass pruner is fine for general purpose pruning of softwood / semi-hardwood around the garden and is less likely to crush stems than an anvil pruner. However, the advantage of an anvil pruner is that the blade cuts mid-way between where a branch is supported on the anvil. So when cutting hardwood, the branch is less likely to pivot.

Open pair of metal bypass secateurs or pruning shears
Secateurs
KoS, public domain image via Wikimedia Commons

4. Hoe

What’s It For?

This has a light blade and handle and is used for severing top growth on weeds in beds and on stone driveways.

Things to Consider:

If you have an aversion to using weed killer, this is a good alternative. Again, the blade should be kept razor shape for ease of use.

Garden hoe with wooden handle
Garden hoe
© Eugene Brennan

5. Fork

What’s It For?

A fork is used for digging and loosening soil and lifting vegetation.

Things to Consider:

There are two types, a digging fork, and a lifting fork. A digging fork can be useful for digging into soil containing lots of stones, roots, etc. It would be difficult to use a spade under these conditions. A lifting fork is used for lifting hedge clippings, long grass, weeds etc for transfer to and from a wheelbarrow. You can also rake bulky material with a lifting fork. (it’s difficult to do this with a rake).

Digging fork with four metal tines and wooden handle
A digging fork.
Rasbak, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons

6. Hand Weeding Tool

What’s It For?

Usually, they have prongs which allow you to loosen the dirt around the root and pry it up out of the ground.

Things to Consider:

The two styles to choose from are short-handled and long-handled. The short-handled requires you to work on your knees, while the latter allows you to stand.

7. Axe, Pickaxe, and Hatchet

What’s It For?

These are useful for splitting logs and cutting roots of trees and shrubs before digging them up.

Things to Consider:

Each of these tools can be used for similar purposes in a pinch, but it is important to know what situations require the appropriate tool.

Splitting axe with wooden handle
Splitting axe
b.gliwa, CC SA 2.5 generic via Wikimedia Commons

8. Step Ladder

What’s It For?

A step ladder allows you to reach high places to groom hedges or other higher growing plants.

Things to Consider:

Although not specifically a garden tool, a step ladder is essential for pruning and cutting tall hedges, trees, and shrubs.

9. Garden Hose

What’s It For?

For watering during dry spells if your water supply company allows this practice and general washing of stuff. A garden hose on a reel is best because you can roll it up and keep it tidy.

Things to Consider:

Get an outside tap with a threaded spout installed. This will allow you to connect the hose up outside, without the hassle of walking inside with dirty boots and hands to use the kitchen tap.

10. Sprayer

What’s It For?

A 1 gallon or 5-litre sprayer is necessary for treating weeds on lawns, around trees, and on gravel driveways.

Things to Consider:

For larger areas, you could also buy a knapsack sprayer which you carry on your back. These have a capacity of 3 to 4 gallons (15 to 18 litres).

What About More Advanced Gardening Tools?

Once you have gotten a knack of things, you can try introducing these 7 more advanced gardening tools to your gardening practices:

  1. Lopping shears
  2. Bow or pruning saw
  3. Lawnmower
  4. String trimmer
  5. Powered hedge cutter
  6. Blower
  7. Chipper or shredder

1. Lopping Shears

Used for cutting branches on trees or shrubs of up to 1 1/2 inches or 40 mm. Use the blade so that it cuts diagonally on the stem. This puts less strain on the blade and requires less effort as you are semi cutting along the grain.Loppers are available with telescopic handles which can be stretched out to give longer reach or pushed in for working in tight spaces. A ratcheting lopper allows you to continuously pump the handles to cut through a branch. These require less effort because you can take a break half-way through, but are slower to use.

Pair of long-handled bypass loppers
Loppers
Dvortygirl, CC SA 3.0 unported via Wikimedia Commons
Close-up of loppers cutting through a thick branch
A loppers can easily cut branches 1 inch (25mm) thick
© Eugene Brennan

2. Bow or Pruning Saw

For cutting branches greater than 1 1/2 inches. You can also use it for cutting logs for your stove/open fire. (see my guide for details). How to Cut Logs with a Bow Saw and Get Great Exercise!

Traditional bow saw with wooden frame and metal blade
Bow saw
Horváth Dávid, CC 2.0 generic via Wikimedia Commons

Choosing a Bow Saw

A saw with a slim, pointed “nose” gets into tighter spaces when you’re cutting limbs from trees and there’s another growth in the way. I like this Bahco brand saw which has a 21-inch blade and is made by a well known Swedish hand tool manufacturer. It also has a comfortable plastic hand grip so your hand doesn’t slip or tire when using the saw for extended periods.A shorter saw is available that you can also use if you go camping. This one folds up, shielding the blade and can be carried safely in a backpack. It's a Gerber Freescape Camp Saw and takes a standard 12″ blade.

Bahco bow saw product image
Bahco pointed nose bow saw

Gerber Freescape folding camp saw
Gerber Freescape Campsaw

3. Lawnmower

What’s It For?

Unless you have an extremely small lawn which can be cut with a push-type reel (cylinder) mower, you are going to need to get a power lawn mower. Gas mowers are generally more powerful than electric or battery types, but these are fine for small lawns and cutting short grass.

Things to Consider:

A 3.5 HP or 140 cc gas mower is ok for a small lawn. If you have a medium to large sized lawn and/or only cut the grass when it gets very long, or it has a lot of moss, don’t buy anything with less than 5 hp /170 cc. For more information on choosing a mower, see my guide “Buying a Lawn Mower: Which Is Best? Electric, Gas, or Battery?“

4. String Trimmer

What’s It For?

You can cut grass along pavements, curbs, tree trunks and hedges with these. You can also edge flower beds.

Things to Consider:

The string trimmer is also known as a trimmer, strimmer, weed whacker, and weedeater.

Gas and electric string trimmers side by side
Gas and electric trimmers
© Eugene Brennan

Recommended String Trimmer: Greenworks 21142 Cordless

Greenworks 21142 model. This has a 10 amp motor (equivalent to over 1100 watt or 1 1/2 HP). The reason I like this machine is because the motor is mounted near the handle end of the shaft unlike lower powered corded electric trimmers that have the motor at the cutting head. This balances the machine better. Because it’s electric there are no fumes and it’s ideal if you you find it difficult to pull start an engine.

Greenworks 21142 cordless string trimmer
Greenworks 21142 string trimmer.
Amaxon

5. Powered Hedge Cutter

What’s It For?

These are used to make hedge cutting easier, more efficient, and produce more precise results.

Things to Consider:

Electric corded or battery cordless versions can be used for light growth, while gas-powered is for heavy growth up to 20mm (3/4″). Obviously, the corded version has to be used with care to avoid cutting the cable.

Person using a gas-powered hedge trimmer on a large yew hedge
Gas powered hedge cutter/trimmer
Ruthanne Reid, CC 2.0 Generic, via Wikimedia Commons

6. Blower

What’s It For?

Although they are not a substitute for rake and fork for collecting large quantities of leaves, they can be of benefit for blowing dry leaves into a pile or finishing off and sucking up debris or leaves remaining after raking.

Things to Consider:

Again, much like the powered hedge cutter, electric and gas versions are available.

Two gas-powered leaf blowers standing outdoors
Gas leaf blowers
Browning031, public domain image via Wikimedia Commons

7. Chipper/Shredder

What’s It For?

A chipper/shredder is useful for dealing with branches.

Things to Consider:

The shredded material can be used as a mulch for preventing weed growth or as a covering for natural pathways in the garden.

Garden chipper shredder machine
Chipper
© Eugene Brennan
Flower bed edged with chipped wood mulch
Chipped branches can be used to suppress weeds
© Eugene Brennan

Disclaimer 

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury. 

© 2012 Eugene Brennan

Comments

PATRICIA DINIZ CATTA PRETAon October 25, 2018:

That’s great! Very helpful and easy to understand even for English learners! Thanks

Monday, 2 November 2026

20 Easy-to-Grow Flowers for Beginner Gardeners

Collage of 20 easy-to-grow garden flowers including poppies, daisies, foxgloves and more with title text
Learn how to grow easy-to-grow-flowers for your garden by reading this guide.

Easy-to-Grow Flowers for a Beautiful Garden!

This article gives you some ideas about easy-to-grow perennial and annual flowers for your planters, pots, and flower beds. From Himalayan blue poppies to red valerian, this flower guide covers the entire rainbow colour spectrum. Find your favourites below!

Sunday, 1 November 2026

What Is a GFCI (RCD)? 7 Tips to Prevent Electric Shock at Home

A GFCI or RCD adapter plugged into an outdoor electrical outlet to prevent electrical shocks
A GFCI or RCD (Residual Current Device) will help prevent potentially dangerous “electrical leaks”.
© Eugene Brennan

What Is a GFCI or RCD, and Why Do I Need One?

A GFCI or “Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter” is an electrical safety device that shuts off power when there’s an electrical “leak”, increasing your safety by helping to prevent dangerous electrical shocks. A GFCI can typically be plugged into a standard socket outlet.

Saturday, 31 October 2026

How to Use an Angle Grinder Safely for Cutting and Grinding Steel

Angle grinder cutting through metal, producing sparks
Original unaltered image byrev, public domain via Pixabay.com

An angle or hand grinder is a power tool regularly used by construction workers and contractors. However, it’s also an invaluable tool in the home workshop or around the house, with a multitude of uses for DIY and crafts.

Friday, 30 October 2026

20 Tools You Need for Home Maintenance and DIY

Collage of DIY tools including loppers, saws, hammers, screwdrivers, multimeter, pliers, tape measure and wrenches with yellow title banner
© Eugene Brennan

So you want to start doing maintenance in your first home to save money or you’re fed up taking time off from work and waiting for tradesmen who don’t turn up on time?

Wednesday, 28 October 2026

What Are the Settings for on a Cordless Drill?

Hand holding a blue and black Bosch Professional cordless drill with screwdriver bit against green grass, title text above
© Eugene Brennan

What Do the Numbers Mean on a Cordless Drill?

Cordless tools are great and, unlike their corded counterparts, they have the obvious advantage of freedom from a power cord that can get in the way, become taut when manoeuvring the tool or end up being tripped over. Also you don’t have to be lugging extension leads around.

Tuesday, 27 October 2026

How to Lay Concrete Kerbs Along a Driveway

Row of rounded concrete edging stones along a dirt border beside brown bushes, with an orange string line and overlaid title text How to Lay Edging Stones
Laying edging kerbs is a simple DIY job with this guide!
© Eugene Brennan

Give Your Driveway a Crisp, Clean Look

Edging a lawn or driveway gives it a crisp, clean look and helps the eye to define the boundary between lawn or flower beds and the harder look of the concrete, stone or tarmac (asphalt) surface of your drive.

Sunday, 25 October 2026

8 Types of Wall Anchors and Fixings: Which Should You Use?

Collage of various wall anchors and fixings including expansion bolts, hollow wall anchors, plastic wall plugs, spring toggles, self-drive drywall anchors, and express nail anchors, with the title “A Guide to Wall Anchors”
© Eugene Brennan

How to Mount Shelves, Cabinets, and More

Fixing stuff to walls is relatively easy, in fact I’ve been doing it since I was 13! My home-made wall plugs made from branches weren’t such a good idea though, and my first shelves fell of the wall when the plugs dried out! In fact, the method used to mount cabinets, brackets for shelves, coat hooks, etc., on a wall depends on the nature of the wall construction. In this guide, I cover some the various fixings available to attach items to different types of wall material, including timber studs, plasterboard (drywall) and masonry walls.

Various fixings are used depending on the structure of the surface you’ll be mounting on. If you’re fixing to timber or wooden studs under drywall, you just use screws, but for drywall itself or masonry, the fixing either holds onto the back of the drywall, or expands in the hole respectively. These are the fixings you’ll typically use:

  1. Self-drive anchors
  2. Spring toggle anchors
  3. Hollow expansion anchors
  4. Wall plugs
  5. Expansion bolts
  6. Frame fixings
  7. Express nail anchors
  8. Philips head screws

Note: The name for the device used to attach items to walls differs between countries. In the US, the term “anchor” is more common, whereas in the UK, the term “fixing” is used. Also what’s called “plasterboard” in the UK is referred to as “drywall” in the US.

“Fixing” is the British term for “anchor” (US).

“Drywall” is the American term for “plasterboard” (UK).

Precautions When Drilling and Fixing to Walls

  • Determine whether there are any services (electric or signal cables or water, gas or waste pipes) in the walls before drilling. Ideally turn off power if possible. A detector will help to locate some services.
  • Use a sufficiently short drill so that you don’t drill through to the other side.
  • Use a mask when drilling to protect yourself from sawdust or cement dust.

What Tools Are Needed for Fixing to Walls?

  • Pencil or marker
  • Drill for drilling holes
  • Screwdriver or cordless drill/driver
  • Spirit level or a good eye!
  • Drill bits

If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal.

Mounting to Stud Walls

Light items, such as small picture frames, wall clocks etc., can be screwed directly to timber panelling/boards if you don’t have drywall.

For items carrying heavy loads, a more secure method is to drive screws into the center of the wall studs. Heavier items such as cabinets and TV brackets need to be fixed to the wall studs with 10 or 11 gage (about 5mm diameter) screws. Modern LED TVs are quite light compared to CRT or plasma types, so you may get away with mounting the brackets directly onto boards or drywall.

How to Find Studs

Plasterboard (drywall) is nailed onto a hollow timber framework known as a stud wall or framing, built from 2 x 4s. (2 inch x 4 inch cross section timbers) or larger cross sectional area (CSA) timber. This is composed of vertical and horizontal sections called studs and noggings (blocking) respectively.

Studs are typically spaced 16″ (400mm) apart and can be found with an electronic stud detector or identifying where drywall sheets butt together at the centre of a stud. You can find a stud by tapping the wall and when you locate a point where the sound is less “hollow,” a stud is underneath.

If you are buying a stud detector, get one which detects metal (useful for finding plumbing and other services in the wall and/or power cables).

Mounting and Screwing to Stud Walls

Once you have found a stud, mark its center, and screw your fixture onto the wall with wood screws. Plasterboard is generally 13 mm (1/2 inch) to 16 mm (5/8 inch) thick, so make sure you size the length of screws appropriately. i.e. allow for the thickness of the plasterboard and the fixture, with 40 mm (1 1/2 inch) of screw thread actually screwing into the stud.

Metal shelf brackets usually have pre-drilled holes. Cabinets sometimes have flat pieces of metal at the back from which the cabinet can be screwed to the wall and “suspended”. If the back of a cabinet is fairly thick and not just thin hardboard, you can drive screws straight through from front to back and into the wall. If the back of a cabinet isn’t pre-drilled, drill holes the same diameter as the screws you are using and then screw the screws into the wall. Choose the length of the screw to cater for the combined thickness of the back of the cabinet and drywall.

Isometric diagram of a timber stud wall frame showing vertical studs, horizontal noggings (blocking), top and bottom plates, with numbered labels pointing to each structural member
Stud Wall
Ahp378, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

Fixings for Mounting to Plasterboard (Drywall)

For mounting to studs and plasterboard (also known as drywall), there are several options. You can use plastic wall plugs (see mounting on masonry walls below) directly pushed into the plaster. However, these are only suitable for very light loads (e.g., small mirrors, light picture frames and smoke alarms). The appropriate fixings for drywall are metal or plastic self-drive fixings (anchors), spring toggle anchors or hollow expansion anchors. For heavier loads, screw directly into the wall studs.

1. Self-Drive Anchors

These are small metal or plastic fixings with a coarse outer thread and inner thread which takes a screw. These will either have a cutting edge and make their own hole in the plasterboard/drywall or you may have to drill a small pilot hole first. The pilot hole diameter may be marked on the fixing, but if not, drill a hole the diameter of the unthreaded core of the fixing in the plasterboard. Now drive the fixing into the plasterboard either using a special dedicated drive bit for a cordless drill or a normal screwdriver. Then attach whatever you are hanging on the the wall to the fixing using the screw provided. These are fine for mounting socket outlets, switches, light fittings on ceilings and other light loads.

Grey plastic self-drive drywall anchors shown with their special drive bit for a cordless drill; pilot hole size (6 mm) is marked on the anchor
Self-drive drywall anchors and drive bit for cordless drill. Metal versions are also available. The pilot hole size which needs to be drilled in the plasterboard (6mm), is marked on the fixing
Smial, Free Art Licence via Wikimedia Commons

2. Spring Toggle Anchors

Alternatively, you can use spring toggle fixings. You drill a hole for these, insert the fitting into the hole and two spring loaded arms open out at the back of the drywall giving anchorage. These provide better anchorage than self-drive anchors which could pull out of the drywall if the load is heavy. The disadvantage of these is that if the screw is removed, the toggle will fall down inside the wall. They also require a relatively large hole drilled in the drywall.

Assortment of metal spring toggle anchors (toggle bolts) of different sizes, some with wings open and some closed, lying on a plain surface
Spring toggle anchors
Tenbergen, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

3. Hollow Expansion Anchors

The hollow shell of these anchors expands as the screw is tightened, pushing against the back surface of the drywall. This gives good grip and the fixings are suitable for heavier loads such as TV brackets. They are available in plastic or metal versions.

Metal hollow expansion anchors (also called molly bolts) shown disassembled and assembled, including the expanding sleeve, washer, and machine screw
Hollow expansion anchors
Dmitry G, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons
Close-up of a single metal hollow expansion (molly) anchor with the expanding sleeve partially opened and the screw head visible
Hollow expansion anchor.

Fixings for Mounting to Masonry Walls

Masonry includes concrete blocks, bricks, solid concrete wall, stone and aerated concrete blocks. Typical fixings include:

  • wall plugs
  • expansion bolts
  • frame fixings
  • express anchors
  • Philips head screws

Tools Required

  1. Cordless or corded, hammer action, power drill
  2. Masonry drill bit. A 1/4 inch (6mm) bit for drilling the holes and 6 mm wall plugs are ideal for mounting light shelf brackets, socket and switch outlets, etc. Use an 5/16 (8mm) bit and wall plugs for heavier loads (cupboards, bookshelves etc).

Drilling Holes and Mounting

  • Before drilling a wall make sure you know where cables and pipes are routed. You can buy a voltage detector for detecting the presence of power cables.

4. Wall Plugs

If a wall is solid construction you must use plastic screw anchors also known as wall plugs. These expand and grip the side of the hole when a screw is driven into them.

The hole is drilled to adequate depth, the wall plug inserted and the fixture screwed onto the wall with 8 or 10 gage (4mm or 5mm) diameter screws. 40 to 50 mm (1 1/2 to 2 inch) long screws are fine for most applications. Use thicker wall plugs and screws for heavier loads.

Four plastic wall plugs (Rawlplugs) of different sizes and colours (grey and beige) arranged on a cork background, with size markings such as NAT 6 and NAT 8 visible
Typical wall plug/anchors for masonry walls. The required drill bit size in mm is indicated on the shank
Bronzaclose, Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication via Wikimedia Commons

To attach a bracket to a wall, first position it against the wall and mark the first hole with a pencil or nail. Don’t mark all the holes because if the drilled hole goes off course, or is a little to one side, the other holes will be out of alignment. Drill the hole with a suitable diameter masonry drill bit, rake or vacuum out the dust and insert the anchor into the hole. Place the bracket against the wall again and line up the center of the anchor in the wall with the hole in the bracket. Mark the next hole and drill it. Repeat for all the holes and finally attach the bracket with wood screws.

If you’re mounting shelf brackets, hold the second bracket against the wall and either rest the shelf on the two brackets and level with a spirit level or if the span is short you can just rest the level on the two brackets without the shelf. Mark the top hole in the second bracket, drill the hole for the screw fitting and then mark and drill the remaining holes as described above. Finally, screw the bracket to the wall.

To use wall plugs (rawplugs), drill the recommended size hole with a hammer action power drill and masonry drill bit and use the proper screw size. The fixing expands as the screw is driven home and grips the side of the hole. People sometimes generically refer to wall plugs as “Rawlplugs” because the wall plug was invented by John Joseph Rawlings, the founder of the Rawlplug company.
Wall plugs normally have the drill diameter marked on them and possibly also the max diameter screw that can be used.

Close-up of blue plastic wall plugs still attached to their plastic strip, showing moulded size markings (min/max screw diameters 4.5 mm and 6 mm) and length codes
Screw sizes and the bit size for the hole are sometimes marked on the wall plugs.
© Eugene Brennan
Close-up of the tip of a worn masonry drill bit showing the carbide cutting tip and fluted shaft
Masonry drill bit
Emrys2, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported via Wikimedia Commons

Drilling Concrete for Wall Plugs

5. Expansion Bolts

If you need to mount heavy loads on masonry walls, there are a couple of options. You can use expansion bolts (wedge anchors) and these are available in a variety of configurations. The most basic type shown in the photos below has a bolt which screws into an outer sleeve. A suitably sized hole is drilled in a wall (the diameter is usually printed on the anchor) and the expansion part of the fixing is inserted in the hole. The bolt is passed through the fixture being attached to the wall and the bolt tightened with a wrench. The fixing expands and securely grips the side of the hole. You can get these fixings with a hook or eye at the end for attaching cables and ropes etc (e.g., a clothes line). Another type has a nut rather than a bolt head at the end.

Important! Expansion fittings shouldn’t be excessively tightened to avoid cracking concrete. They should also be kept in a minimum distance from the edge of concrete or solid blocks. A crack in this case could cause a section to break off and the bolt to lose its grip on the masonry.

Hand holding a used metal expansion bolt (wedge anchor) with hexagonal nut and washer, showing the expanding sleeve and threaded shaft
Expansion bolt (Wedge anchor)
© Eugene Brennan
Same expansion bolt held in a hand, viewed from the side to illustrate how the sleeve expands and grips when the bolt is tightened
When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve expands and grips the side of the hole
© Eugene Brennan

6. Frame Fixings

For fixing timber frames to concrete or brick walls, you have two options: frame fixings or express anchors.

Lengths of timber, stud walls or any other type of thick material can be fixed to masonry with frame fixings. These are like a long wall plug. An 8mm to 10mm hole is first drilled through timber and masonry behind it and the fixing tapped home until the edge is flush with the timber. Then the screw is either screwed or hammered into the plastic sleeve. You can also use these fixings for attaching things to masonry walls, after the walls have been insulated with composite drywall/insulation boards, e.g., radiators. Choose an appropriate length so that the part of the fixing that expands is within the masonry.

Long grey plastic frame fixing (sleeve) with a gold-coloured screw partially inserted, shown against a white background
Frame fixing

7. Express Anchors

Express anchors represent another option for attaching timber beams, fence posts, door frames etc to walls. These fixings are hollow with a slot in the side and slightly larger than the hole which is drilled for them. When hammered into a hole, they squeeze tight and wedge firmly into position. They can also be used for joining timber as they provide the advantage of a screw, resisting being pulled out, and the convenience of a nail. The disadvantage of course is that unlike a frame fixing, they are permanent and can’t be easily removed.

Note! Neither frame fixings nor express anchors are recommended for fixing into cavity blocks. In any case, they should be at least 4 inches (100mm) in from the edges of blocks and spaced no closer than 4 inches to prevent cracking of the masonry.

Hand holding a long, slim metal express nail anchor with a flanged head and a slotted, slightly tapered body
Express nail anchor
© Eugene Brennan
Close-up of an express nail anchor driven into a timber beam against a white textured wall, showing only the head remaining flush with the wood
Express anchors can be used for attaching timbers to walls
© Eugene Brennan

8. Philips Head Screws

For brick or stud walls, I generally use Spax wood screws or similar. These type of screws have a tip which drills through timber as the screw is driven, making for easier driving. A Philips head allows you to drive the screw with a cordless drill.

Collage showing a green box of Spax 5 × 40 mm wood screws, a pile of the screws on wood, and two close-up views of a single screw held in fingers, highlighting the self-drilling tip and Philips head
Spax wood screws
© Eugene Brennan

Frequently Asked Questions

What screws should I use for brick or stud walls?

Spax wood screws or similar with a Philips head have a special tip that makes drilling easier.

What are the strongest drywall anchors?

Spring toggle anchors provide the most anchorage when it comes to drywall/plasterboard.

What kinds of anchors can hold a TV?

Hollow expansion anchors are suitable for heavy loads, such as TVs.

How do I mount heavy items on walls?

Heavy items should be mounted to a stud, if possible. If you are not mounting on a stud, use a toggle anchor. The size of the toggle depends on the weight of the piece and the thickness of the wall. If you are mounting a heavy item on a masonry wall, use an expansion bolt (anchor wedge).

How much weight can a toggle anchor hold?

The thicker the anchor, the more weight it can hold. A thick toggle anchor can hold up to 50 pounds. Hollow expansion anchors can hold up to 100 pounds.

Disclaimer 

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Power and hand tools can be dangerous. Read and understand all manuals before use and take reasonable precautions including wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) to prevent against injury. 

© 2011 Eugene Brennan

lucille12 on April 05, 2015:

The right hangers can certainly help in organizing your home and eliminating the piles that lay around the home.

Saturday, 24 October 2026

How to Build a Low-Maintenance Garden Storage Shed From Steel Cladding

Completed dark green corrugated metal garden shed with light brown wooden door and horizontal black bar, on gravel surface with trees and plants surrounding it
© Eugene Brennan

Have you ever wanted to build your own garden shed? I always have and attempted my first one when I was about 10 years old, but abandoned the project because of lack of materials, skills and tools! Eventually, 40 years later, I got around to building a proper garden tool shed.

Monday, 19 October 2026

How to Use a String Trimmer Properly Without Breaking the Line!

Petrol and electric corded trimmers
© Eugene Brennan

This garden power tool has many names depending on where you live in the world, but one thing is sure — it certainly beats a hedge shears for trimming and edging! Like most power tools nowadays, string trimmers are available in petrol, electric corded and rechargeable battery cordless versions.

Saturday, 17 October 2026

How to Change Lawn Mower Oil: No Fancy Tools Needed!

Red oil can icon with three green oil drops
© Eugene Brennan

Motor oil is an essential requirement of all engines. It has several functions, including lubrication of metal parts in contact (reducing friction), cooling, keeping surfaces clean, sealing and corrosion inhibition.

Thursday, 15 October 2026

How to Replace a Spigot Washer – Dripping Outside Tap (Bibcock)

Brass outdoor garden faucet (bibcock) with water dripping from the spout against a cloudy sky
© Eugene Brennan

Like any other faucet (also known as a tap), a spigot has an internal washer which seals and cuts off flow when the spigot is turned off. Eventually after thousands of on/off cycles, this washer wears away, and the result is a dripping spigot.

Wednesday, 14 October 2026

A Guide to Names of Weeds (With Pictures)

Cartoon of anthropomorphic yellow weeds
AI image generated by Bing Image Creator

Weed Identification Guide

This guide helps you identify the 25 most common weeds that you’ll encounter in your yard, flower beds or lawn. Some are annuals and others are perennials—many are easy to eradicate, others more difficult to eliminate.

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